Allison, H., Expeditious Regimes of Artificial Beach Nourishment or Dredging, Coastal Engineering, 5 (4), 311-330, 1981.


Amorosi, A., Glaucony and Sequence Stratigraphy - a Conceptual-Framework of Distribution in Siliciclastic Sequences, Journal of Sedimentary Research Section B-Stratigraphy and Global Studies, 65 (4), 419-425, 1995.

Detailed analysis of recent literature on glaucony and selected case studies (Eocene, Isle of Wight; Miocene, northern Apennines) shows that the presence of glaucony alone is not diagnostic of a specific systems tract of a depositional sequence, A reliable sequence stratigraphic interpretation of glaucony bearing units requires additional information on glaucony, including: (1) spatial distribution, (2) maturity (distinction between nascent, slightly evolved, evolved, and highly evolved glaucony), and (3) genetic attributes (differentiation of autochthonous from allochthonous, and intrasequential from extrasequential glaucony). Autochthonous glaucony is common at various stratigraphic levels in the transgressive systems tract (TST) and the lower highstand systems tract (HST), showing an upward increase (TST) and then decrease (HST) in abundance and maturity, The condensed section can be distinguished from the overlying and underlying deposits by the higher concentration and maturity of glaucony, Allochthonous intrasequential (parautochthonous) glaucony can be present in the entire TST, HST, and lowstand systems tract (LST), generally showing lower concentration and maturity than its autochthonous counterpart, Al lochthonous extrasequential (detrital) glaucony is present mainly in the LST, its concentration and composition depending on the characteristics of the source horizon, The association between autochthonous and allochthonous (intrasequential and extrasequential) glaucony commonly exists in the LST and in the lower TST.

Bailey, G.W., and J. Rogers, Chemical oceanography and marine geoscience off southern Africa: Past discoveries in the post-Gilchrist era, and future prospects, Transactions of the Royal Society of South Africa, 52, 51-79, 1997.

In 1895/96, John D. F. Gilchrist was appointed marine biologist to the Cape Colony. During voyages extending as far as Walvis Bay and Maputo, he initiated studies of the marine geology and chemical oceanography of the shelf while mapping substrata for new demersal fishing grounds. The shelf sediments off the East Coast are controlled by wave processes along the inner shelf and by the poleward-flowing Agulhas Current along the outer shelf. In contrast, South Coast sediments of the eastern Agulhas Bank consist of wave-dominated, landward-coarsening modern (Holocene) terrigenous muds to sands on the inner shelf and relict wave-dominated shelly sands on the outer shelf, deposited during Pleistocene lowstands within glacial (hypothermal) periods. The Agulhas Current also appears to exert a controlling influence over the nutrient chemistry and, hence, primary productivity, on the East and South Coast margins. The surface waters of the Agulhas Current are nutrient-poor and most East Coast areas are consequently considerably less productive than their West Coast counterparts at the same latitude, but the underlying South Indian Central Water (SICW) is nutrient-rich. Recent findings suggest that the Agulhas Current may induce upwelling of nutrient-rich bottom water derived from SICW at sites such as the Natal Eight and off Port Alfred by kinematic upwelling, so enhancing the nutrient content of surface waters and increasing the potential for primary production there. A second physical process, which is also thought to be related to interaction of the Agulhas Current and bottom topography, is the dynamic shelf-edge upwelling of SICW onto the shelf along portions of the South Coast where the shelf is wider. It is uncertain whether this is continuous in space or time, but it is possible that the process may prime bottom waters for wind-induced upwelling in the south-western ice of capes along the South Coast. On the West Coast, the outer-shelf sediment consists of Holocene planktonic-foraminiferal ooze, reflecting the dominating influence of the equatorward-flowing Benguela Current. The middle-shelf sediment often consists of glauconitic sand, whereas the sediment of the inner shelf usually has a landward- coarsening and -thickening wedge of terrigenous muds to sands. Wind-induced upwelling is the dominant West Coast physical process of relevance to the sedimentology and chemistry of the inner shelf and overlying waters. In the southern Benguela, this is seasonal, resulting in seasonal variability in the abundance of nutrients and the resultant productivity of surface waters and associated biogeochemical processes, such as the appearance of oxygen-depleted bottom water. There is a northward decrease in the seasonality of these physical and biogeochemical processes along the West Coast, which is reflected in an increase in the reducing nature of the underlying organic-rich sediments between St Helena Bay and Walvis Bay. In the deep-sea environment of the Cape Basin, the clockwise poleward flow of bath the Antarctic Bottom Water (AABW) and the North Atlantic Deep Water (NADW) is reflected in a major zone of erosion of the sea floor, mantled by abundant ferromanganese nodules, at the foot of the continental rise, which is fed by margin-perpendicular slumps, debris flows and canyon-fed turbidity currents. The currents, driven by Coriolis Force, both swing left (east) into the Agulhas Passage between the Agulhas Bank and the Agulhas Plateau, before parting company in the Transkei Basin, where the AABW is forced eastwards by the northeast-shallowing contours of the Natal Valley. The E-W-orientated Agulhas Drift, a contourite drift, is being deposited on the left (north) side of the AABW. The NADW then heads into the Natal Valley to deposit margin- parallel contourite drifts at the foot of the continental slope as far north as Durban, where the Central Terrace and then the Mozambique Ridge steer the NADW first east and then south hack to the mouth of the Natal Valley.

Bennington, J.B., and R.K. Bambach, Statistical testing for paleocommunity recurrence: Are similar fossil assemblages ever the same?, Palaeogeography Palaeoclimatology Palaeoecology, 127 (1-4), 107-133, 1996.

Observations of the recurrence of similar fossil assemblages through long intervals of geologic time punctuated by rapid changes in both the composition and structure of fossil assemblages has recently resulted in the concept of ''coordinated stasis'' to describe this pattern in the behavior of paleocommunities through time. Coordinated stasis may imply the existence of ecological mechanisms that actively maintain particular community structures and thus have a significant impact on the process of macroevolution. However, before such mechanisms can be invoked, it must be shown that ecological stasis as observed in the fossil record is more significant than the persistence of similar community types due to the repeated reinvasion of recurring habitats from a persistent species pool (the ''null hypothesis'' for paleocommunity recurrence). Analysis of the relationship between communities and paleocommunities and an expansion of the ecological hierarchy at the community/paleocommunity level allows the creation of a rigorous definition of the entities composing the local paleocommunity (the samples collected within a stratigraphic horizon at a single locality), paleocommunity (groups of samples shown to be statistically identical), and paleocommunity type (groups of samples that are similar but can be shown to be statistically different). These definitions permit the development of the null model for paleocommunity recurrence and establish a base-level of variability within a local paleocommunity that permits rigorous statistical comparisons to be made between paleoecological samples at larger temporal and geographic scales. Paleoecological samples from four marine tongues in the Middle Pennsylvanian Breathitt Formation are used to analyze species abundance variability at several spatial and temporal scales and to lest for paleocommunity recurrence. Although recurrence of statistically identical local paleocommunities occurs at single localities and between localities within individual marine units, it is usually not detectable between marine tongues, suggesting that paleocommunity recurrence in the marine strata of the Breathitt Formation is the recurrence of paleocommunity types and does not falsify the null hypothesis.

Berne, S., G. Lericolais, T. Marsset, J.F. Bourillet, and M. De Batist, Erosional offshore sand ridges and lowstand shorefaces: Examples from tide- and wave-dominated environments of France, Journal of Sedimentary Research, 68 (4), 540-555, 1998.

Offshore sand bodies are described from many continental shelves in the world, as well as in the stratigraphic record, where they shelves in the world, as well as in the stratigraphic record, where they commonly are productive reservoirs. Same of these ancient sand bodies, initially interpreted as sand ridges, are now reinterpreted as lowstand shoreface deposits. Modern sand bodies, in contrast, have received relatively little attention with regard to reinterpretation of their origin, largely because of the lack of information about their internal structure. Improved techniques in acquisition and processing of very high- resolution seismic profiles, along with some shallow cores, allow us to reconstruct the architecture of "offshore sand bodies" from the Celtic Sea (tide dominated) and the Gulf of Lions (wave-dominated) shelves of France, in water depths of 100-170 m. In both areas, our investigations demonstrate that these particular sand bodies consist mainly of lowstand deposits (estuarine/deltaic systems, sharp based shorefaces), reworked during transgressions. In the Celtic Sea, intense erosion by combined waves and tidal currents resulted in the shaping of shore-oblique ridges by cannibalization of older lowstand deposits. In the Gulf of Lions, the shore-parallel orientation of the lowstand shorefaces has been preserved, leaving an ancestral sand body with reworked (transgressive) surface deposits. Understanding the architecture and distribution of offshore sand bodies requires taking into consideration not only the effects of relative sea-level changes and sediment supply, but also the role of hydrodynamical processes. The erosional sand bodies we describe represent a new category of outer-shelf sand bodies, a combination of the "autocyclic" examples described by Houbolt (1968) in the southern North Sea and the "allocyclic" lowstand shorefaces mainly described in the stratigraphic record of the Western Interior Seaway of North America. Our findings have applications for predicting the geometry of ancestral sand bodies and their orientation and position with respect to paleo-shorelines. The magnitude of erosional processes also implies that a large amount of shelf sediment (mainly sand) was transferred to the adjacent deep sea boor during the early transgression.

Blackwelder, B.W., I.G. Macintyre, and O.H. Pilkey, Geology of Continental-Shelf, Onslow Bay, North-Carolina, As Revealed By Submarine Outcrops, Aapg Bulletin-American Association of Petroleum Geologists, 66 (1), 44-56, 1982.


Boardman, M.R., and C. Carney, Origin and Accumulation of Lime Mud in Ooid Tidal Channels, Bahamas, Journal of Sedimentary Petrology, 61 (5), 661-680, 1991.

Mud layers have been found within the ooid sands of Joulters Cays and Lee Stocking Island, Bahamas. A 1.3-m vibracore extracted from 4 m water depth in the Lee Stocking tidal channel contains a lower unit of dark brown muddy sand (skeletal rich) overlain by two layers of ooid sands intercalated with two layers of creamy, white mud. The two upper mud layers are aragonite-rich, sometimes pelleted, and contain very few skeletal grains. The contacts between the ooid sands and mud layers are commonly sharp, but some contacts show evidence of burrowing and mud clast formation. A mud layer with similar textural, mineralogic and petrographic characteristics was recovered from a 16-cm core from a tidal channel on Joulters Cays, Bahamas. This mud layer was also enclosed within ooid sands. Mud in the Lee Stocking ooid tidal channel is apparently of two origins. Mud in the lower unit of the core contains a more equal distribution of aragonite and calcite (almost-equal-to 50% each) and abundant skeletal grains of normal marine origin, indicating that the lower unit is lagoonal. Mud that is interlayered with ooid sands in the same core is dominated by aragonite (almost-equal-to 80%) and contains little sand-sized material, suggesting that it is not a typical lagoon mud. SEM examination also confirms that this mud is quite different from the lagoonal mud found at the base of the core. C-14 dating of the mud from the lagoonal unit shows that this sediment was deposited in water depths of 2 to 3 m approximately 5000 years ago when sea level was 3 m lower than present. C-14 dating coupled with knowledge of Holocene sea level indicates that both the ooid sands and the mud layers were also deposited as subtidal sediments. The mechanism by which the mud layers are accumulated with ooid sands is problematic. Suspension by storms and transport to tidal channels is one possibility; however, evaluation of the data suggests an alternative explanation. The post-lagoon history of deposition of the tidal channel may include nearly continuous restriction during which mud layers were deposited. The restriction was possibly caused by the formation and maintenance of ooid sand barriers. Ooid sand deposition and burial of these layers may have accompanied barrier destruction.

Bodur, M.N., and M. Ergin, Holocene Sedimentation Patterns and Bedforms in the Wave- Current-Dominated Nearshore Waters of Eastern Mersin Bay (Eastern Mediterranean), Marine Geology, 108 (1), 73-93, 1992.

The distribution and bedforms of Holocene sediments in relatively high energy. wave-dominated nearshore waters of the eastern Mersin Bay (eastern Mediterranean) were investigated by high resolution seismic profiles, sidescan sonar records and surface sediment samples. High-resolution seismic reflection profiles show that the sedimentary column consists of two main sequences separated by a mid-reflector (R), showing irregular and erosional surface features, which is interpreted as the Late Pleistocene/Holocene boundary. The upper sequence which is seen as parallel to slightly divergent reflection configurations in a sheet-like to wedge-shaped geometry, approximates to Holocene deposits reaching up to 10 m in thickness about 2 km seaward of the shoreline, with a slight tendency to increase offshore. Seismic data indicate that the unconformity between the late glacial subaerial surface and the overlying post-glacial transgressive deposits occurs at depths of 1-10 m below the seafloor. Holocene sedimentation rates are estimated to be 10-100 cm per 1000 yr. Typical ridge-furrow systems cutting into beachrocks are apparently products of mechanical erosion at very shallow water depths. The lower seismic sequence underlying the reflector R may represent pre- Holocene deposits and is characterized by complex stratified reflection patterns, commonly showing hummocky to mounded and chaotic cut-and-fill facies. Sidescan sonar records indicate prominent features of these nearshore areas such as gravel waves between sand patches and beachrocks: The former are thought to have been produced as a result of the interaction of waves and currents on the sediment surface with an apparently westerly migration direction for sand, whereas the latter were formed during the lowstand of sea level in the Late Holocene. Muddy sand is the dominant sediment type in the nearshore waters of Mersin Bay (in depths less than 15 m) with local sand and gravel patches and beachrock outcrops.

Bookman, C.A., R.J. Seymour, and W. Young, Advancement and Use of Beach Nourishment Technology in the United-States, Marine Technology Society Journal, 28 (3), 59-65, 1994.

The protection of sandy shorelines by means of periodic placement of beach quality sand is an increasingly popular method of shoreline protection in the United States. Yet, the practice remains controversial for economic and environmental reasons. This paper reviews the state of practice of beach nourishment technology in the United States and assesses technology and policy issues that need to be addressed to improve the application of the technology and the performance of beach nourishment projects. The paper is based on ongoing work of the Marine Board of the National Research Council that is slated to be completed in CY 1995.

Boyd, R., and C. Honig, Estuarine Sedimentation On the Eastern Shore of Nova-Scotia, Journal of Sedimentary Petrology, 62 (4), 569-583, 1992.

Vibracored sedimentary sequences and microfauna (foraminifera) were studied in Lawrencetown Lake, a small, wave-dominated estuary with minor fluvial input located on the Eastern shore of Nova Scotia. Seven lithofacies were identified on the basis of sedimentological characteristics, microfaunal assemblages, and stratigraphic relationships. These lithofacies can be grouped into three associations which define estuarine basin fill, channel cut and fill, and channel bypass subenvironments within the estuary system. Facies relationships indicate a cyclic pattern of estuarine sedimentation, controlled by fluctuating local sediment supply superimposed upon a regional transgression.

Bray, T.F., and C.H. Carter, Physical Processes and Sedimentary Record of a Modern, Transgressive, Lacustrine Barrier-Island, Marine Geology, 105 (1-4), 155-168, 1992.

High water levels, storms, and a sparse sand supply have led to the formation and episodic migration of this 30 km-wide, foredune-lacking, lacustrine barrier. Transgression is dominated by overwash and by channels cut during storms that transport sand to the lagoon. The barrier system is characterized by five environments: near-shore, foreshore, backshore/washover terrace, channel, and lagoon. The nearshore consists of irregular bars that overlie a Holocene peat and/or clay. The bars are characterized by low-angle stratification, and ripples, and landward-dipping tabular sets. The foreshore consists of a smooth, plane surface and internally by lakeward- dipping (3-degrees to 12-degrees) laminations that truncate one another and thin towards the berm. The backshore/washover terrace consists of a gently (1-degrees to 2-degrees) landward- dipping surface that changes at the lagoon margin to a steeply (30-degrees) landward-dipping surface. Stratification consists of subhorizontal, landward-dipping laminations and thin beds that are thinnest nearer the berm and gradually thicken toward the lagoon, and by avalanche foresets. Washover fans coalesce to form the terrace. The channels, which are commonly less than a few tens of meters wide and a meter deep, form during storms when wave energy is concentrated by refraction around nearshore bars. The channel facies consists of nearly horizontal beds and laminations of gravel and coarse sand. The lagoon consists of mud that overlies a Holocene peat; the lagoonal mud is eroded during transgression. The vertical sequence which is 1-2 m thick, consists from the base up of horizontal laminations of coarse sand and gravel of the channel facies, the landward- dipping foresets of the washover fan margin, and the gently landward-dipping laminations and landward-dipping avalanche foresets of the backshore/washover terrace. The preservation potential is considered low, although Pleistocene and Holocene coastal deposits have survived for up to 15,000 years in the Great Lakes region.

Bridge, J.S., and B.J. Willis, Marine Transgressions and Regressions Recorded in Middle Devonian Shore-Zone Deposits of the Catskill Clastic Wedge, Geological Society of America Bulletin, 106 (11), 1440-1458, 1994.

The shore zone of the Middle Devonian Catskill elastic wedge in New York State consists of (1) a storm-wave-dominated muddy marine shelf with sandy shoals; (2) sandy, tide-influenced channels with wave- and tide-influenced mouth bars; (3) sandy and muddy tidal flats, including channels, mouth bars, and washovers; and (4) muddy brackish bags, lakes, and flood plains. The spatial organization of these subenvironments suggests a wave- and tide-influenced deltaic shoreline. Meter- scale sequences can be related to processes such as lateral migration and filling of tidal channels, progradation of channel-mouth bars and tidal flats, and filling of coastal bays; these may be related to channel switching. Asymmetrical regressive-transgressive sequences that range from tens of meters to >100 m thick can be correlated over many kilometers with fully marine and fluvial deposits. Such sequences record a combination of eustatic sea-level changes and tectonically induced changes in sediment supply and subsidence rate. However, at present it is very difficult to determine the relative importance of these controls.

Brooks, G.R., Recent sedimentary development of Tampa Bay, Florida: A microtidal estuary incised into tertiary platform carbonates, Estuaries, 21 (3), 391-406, 1998.

Tampa Bay, a large, microtidal, clastic-filled estuary incised into Tertiary carbonate strata, is the largest estuary on Florida's west coast. A total of 250 surface sediment samples and 17 cores were collected in Tampa Bay in order to determine the patterns and controlling factors governing the recent infilling and modern sediment distribution, and to examine the results in terms of current models of estuarine sedimentation and development. Surficial sediments in Tampa Bay consist of three facies types, each occurring in a distinct zone: modern terrigenous elastic muds occurring in the upper bay and around the bay periphery; relict, reworked-fluvial, quartz-rich sands occupying the open portion of the middle bay; and modern carbonate-rich, marine-derived sands and gravels occupying the lower bay. Factors controlling sediment distribution include: sediment source and supply rate; bathymetry, which is a function of the antecedent topography; and the winnowing effect of wind-generated waves that prohibits modern accumulation in the shallow middle bay. These factors also play a major role in the recent infilling history of Tampa Bay, which has progressed in four stages during the Holocene sea-level rise. Recently developed models of estuarine sedimentation are based primarily on mesotidal to macrotidal estuaries in terrigenous elastic settings in which sedimentation patterns and infilling history are a result of the relative contribution of marine and fluvial processes. Tampa Bay differs in that it was originally incised into carbonate strata, and neither fluvial or marine processes are interpreted to be major contributors to modern sediment distribution. Tampa Bay, therefore, provides an example of an unusual estuary type, which should be considered in future modeling efforts.

Browder, A.E., and R.G. Dean, Monitoring and comparison to predictive models of the Perdido Key beach nourishment project, Florida, USA, Coastal Engineering, 39 (2-4), 173-191, 2000.

This paper summarizes the results of over 8 years of data describing the performance of a large beach nourishment project on Perdido Key, immediately adjacent to Pensacola Pass in Escambia County, FL, USA. As a result of a major excavation of the entrance channel to Pensacola Bay, over 7 million m(3) of beach-quality sand were placed along the easternmost 7.5 km of Perdido Key, adjoining the entrance channel at Pensacola Pass. The project included the placement of 4.1 million m(3) of sand directly upon the shoreline in 1989-1990, followed by the placement of an additional 3 million m(3) as an underwater berm just offshore of the beach nourishment project in water depths of roughly 6 m. Monitoring of the performance of the beach nourishment project and the offshore berm has been conducted since 1989, beginning with a pre-construction survey of the project area. Monitoring surveys have been conducted on an annual or biennial basis since that time, with the most recent survey occurring in July/August, 1998. Over 8 years of monitoring data indicate that the beach nourishment project has retained approximately 56% of the original volume placed within the 7.5-km project length. In addition, according to the latest monitoring survey, the dry beach width of the project, initially constructed as 135 m on average, is still 53 m wider than pre-project conditions. Approximately 41% of the originally placed dry planform area remains as of July 1998. The most recent monitoring surveys in 1995, 1997, and 1998 encompass the effects of two major storm systems, Hurricanes Erin (August 1995) and Opal (October 1995). Monitoring of the offshore berm area indicates only a slight landward migration of the berm, accompanied by a minor decrease in volume, over the entire monitoring period. The performance of both the beach nourishment project and the offshore berm appear to be significantly related to the two storm events, particularly Hurricane Opal, and the proximity of the project to the tidal entrance at Pensacola Pass. Comparison of the documented performance of the beach nourishment project to simple existing analytical models of beach-fill evolution have yielded encouraging results in terms of preliminary design aids for future beach nourishment projects in the vicinity of deep tidal entrances. (C) 2000 Published by Elsevier Science B.V. All rights reserved.

Bruun, P., Beach Nourishment - Improved Economy Through Better Profiling and Backpassing From Offshore Sources, Journal of Coastal Research, 6 (2), 265-277, 1990.


Cacchione, D.A., D.E. Drake, J.T. Ferreira, and G.B. Tate, Bottom Stress Estimates and Sand Transport On Northern California Inner Continental-Shelf, Continental Shelf Research, 14 (10-11), 1273-1289, 1994.

Measurements of velocities and light transmission in the bottom boundary layer on the continental shelf off northern California demonstrate the importance of storms in the transport of sediment along the coast and offshore in this region. Time- series estimates of bottom stress obtained from a combined wave-current bottom boundary layer model in which wave and current measurements from the Geoprobe tripod were used as input show high stress values of 10 dynes cm-2 during two distinct storm events in early February and early March, 1991. These stresses induce significant offshore sediment transport, achieving maximum values of about 0.5 g cm-1 s-1. The net transport over the entire measurement period from 30 January 1991 to 13 March 1991 was along the coast toward the north and offshore. This transport pattern explains slow migration of low amplitude, broad crescentic dunes along and across this portion of the inner continental shelf.

Cacchione, D.A., P.L. Wiberg, J. Lynch, J. Irish, and P. Traykovski, Estimates of suspended-sediment flux and bedform activity on the inner portion of the Eel continental shelf, Marine Geology, 154 (1-4), 83-97, 1999.

Energetic waves, strong bottom currents, and relatively high rates of sediment discharge from the Eel River combined to produce large amounts of suspended-sediment transport on the inner continental shelf near the Eel River during the winter of 1995-1996. Bottom-boundary-layer (BBL) measurements at a depth of similar to 50 m using the GEOPROBE tripod showed that the strongest near-bottom flows (combined wave and current speeds of over 1 m/s) and highest sediment concentrations (exceeding 2 g/l at similar to 1.2 m above the bed) occurred during two storms, one in December 1995 and the other in February 1996. Discharge from the Eel River during these storms was estimated at between 2 and 4 x 10(3) m(3)/s. Suspended-sediment flux (SSF) was measured 1.2 m above the bed and calculated throughout the BBL, by applying the tripod data to a shelf sediment-transport model. These results showed initially northward along-shelf SSF during the storms, followed by abrupt and persistent southward reversals. Along-shelf flux was more pronounced during and after the December storm than in February. Across-shelf SSF over the entire measurement period was decidedly seaward. This seaward transport could be responsible for surficial deposits of recent sediment on the outer shelf and upper continental slope in this region. Sediment ripples and larger bedforms were observed in the very fine to fine sand at 50-m depth using a sector-scanning sonar mounted on the tripod. Ripple wavelengths estimated from the sonar images were about 9 cm, which compared favorably with photographs of the bottom taken with a camera mounted on the tripod. The ripple patterns were stable during periods of low combined wave-current bottom stresses, but changed significantly during high-stress events, such as the February storm. Two different sonic altimeters recorded changes in bed elevation of 10 to 20 cm during the periods of measurement. These changes an thought to have been caused principally by the migration of low-amplitude, long-wavelength sand waves into the measurement area. (C) 1999 Elsevier Science B.V. All rights reserved.

Cadee, G.C., Eider, Shelduck, and Other Predators, the Main Producers of Shell Fragments in the Wadden Sea - Paleoecological Implications, Palaeontology, 37, 181-202, 1994.

Seventy five per cent by weight of the > 2 mm carbonate fraction of Wadden Sea sediments consists of fragmented shells, thirty per cent > 8 mm and forty five per cent in the 2-8 mm fraction. Eiderducks (Somateria mollissima) feed mainly on mussels (Mytilus edulis) and cockles (Cerastoderma edule). Shells are crushed internally to fragments with a size-range from < 0.1 to 8 mm, twenty per cent were < 1 mm, sixty per cent 2-8 mm. One-third to one-half of the fragments in the 2-8 mm fraction in the sediments are due to eider predation alone. Other birds, crabs and fish probably produce the remaining fragments of this fraction. Shelduck (Tadorna tadorna) feed on the small gastropod Hydrobia ulvae; a varying amount (seventeen to thirty two per cent by weight) of shells was found intact in their faeces, but the remainder is fragmented. Around forty per cent by weight of Hydrobia shells in the Wadden Sea sediments is broken. This can be attributed to shelduck and other predators (e.g. knot) feeding on Hydrobia. Fragments in the > 8 mm fraction may also be produced by predators (shore crabs, oystercatchers). Physical destruction plays a minor role in the Wadden Sea. Shell fragmentation cannot be used as a measure of water turbulence. The high percentage of shell fragments indicates high predation pressure. However, the use of shell fragmentation to estimate predation pressure in fossil faunas is not possible, because some predators leave one (oystercatchers) or both valves (Asterias) intact. Despite high fragmentation fidelity of the death assemblage to the living fauna of the Wadden Sea is high. Physical destruction would leave only fragments of durable skeletons with low fidelity to the living fauna.

Callender, W.R., E.N. Powell, and G.M. Staff, Taphonomic Rates of Molluscan Shells Placed in Autochthonous Assemblages On the Louisiana Continental-Slope, Palaios, 9 (1), 60-73, 1994.

A mixed assemblage of lucinid and mussel shells were placed in mesh bags and left at a site of autochthonous death assemblage formation in a petroleum seep community on the Louisiana upper continental slope for a period of 3 yr. Upon recovery, the shells were assessed for taphonomic alteration and compared to a control assemblage of unaltered shells. The data verify a basic assumption of taphofacies analysis; that evidence of taphonomic processes preserved with the assemblage does in fact document the primary taphonomic processes that biased the assemblage from the original assemblage of living preservable organisms. Significant variability in taphonomic rates existed between shells from locations 10 m apart, as is typical of autochthonous assemblages, so that small-scale variability in the taphonomic process was important. Mussels were more severely altered than lucinids. Mussels were more heavily dissolved, had more altered edges, were more prone to fragmentation and exhibited greater weight loss (=carbonate loss) than did the lucinids. The estimated residence time for mussels on the continental slope is approximately 3 to 15 yr. Lucinids may be indefinitely preserved. The observed discrepancy between the dominance of lucinids at fossil seeps and the frequent dominance of mussels at recent seeps can be explained by biased preservation favoring the lucinids.

Caplan, M.L., and T.F. Moslow, Depositional origin and facies variability of a Middle Triassic barrier island complex, Peejay field, northeastern British Columbia, Aapg Bulletin-American Association of Petroleum Geologists, 83 (1), 128-154, 1999.

Middle Triassic strata of the Peejay field in northeastern British Columbia are composed of four regressive shorefaces, the youngest having been reworked by tidal inlets. Tidal-inlet sublitharenites and bioclastic grainstones form the best reservoir facies. These deposits form a series of shoreline- parallel, narrow sharp-based, linear sand bodies that eroded the paleoshoreface. The orientation, geometry, and internal sedimentology of these tidal-inlet facies suggest that the paleoshoreline was subjected to a wave-dominated paleohydrographic regime. Determining the processes responsible for forming a specific tidal inlet can provide information regarding waves, tides, and storms characteristic of the depositional setting. Knowledge of this paleohydrographic regime can aid in predicting the orientation and internal characteristics of tidal-inIet reservoir facies. Improved predictability of reservoir facies geometry and quality can have direct implications on hydrocarbon exploration and development strategies of these and similarly formed hydrocarbon plays of the Triassic in the Western Canada sedimentary basin and elsewhere.

Carr, D.L., and A.J. Scott, Late Pennsylvanian Storm-Dominated Shelf Sand Ridges, Sacramento Mountains, New-Mexico, Journal of Sedimentary Petrology, 60 (4), 592-607, 1990.


Carter, L., and K. Lewis, Variability of the modern sand cover on a tide and storm driven inner shelf, south Wellington, New Zealand, New Zealand Journal of Geology and Geophysics, 38 (4), 451-470, 1995.

The embayed coast, south of Wellington, is notorious for the severity of its storms and tides. Time-series side-scan sonar and sediment surveys, made of the bays and inner shelf over an 11-16 year period, show that the general locations of four main seabed types-(1) a modern, fine-medium sand cover, (2) a generally megarippled, coarse sand - fine gravel substrate, (3) a basal cobble-boulder deposit, and (4) greywacke basement- remain fairly stable despite considerable mobility at the edges of each deposit. The sand cover is best developed(1.5 m max. thickness) in the larger bays centred on Wellington Harbour entrance. Here it has undergone bouts of accretion (indicated by advances of cover edges) that have ended in erosion (with retreat of edges). Mobility of sand is induced on a daily to annual basis by tides reinforced by southerly swell and storm- driven currents. These high-frequency events are superimposed on annular to decadal variations that probably relate to the frequency of gales and storms, and to variations in sediment supply caused by local earthquakes, changes in land use, and climatic cycles. Outside the bays, on the open shelf, the combination of a more vigorous tidal flow and reduced sediment supply mean that the sand cover is much less extensive and more mobile. The seabed is predominantly coarse sand - fine gravel with a megarippled surface formed by southerly swell. Tides become progressively stronger to the west, and, in the Narrows of Cook Strait, currents are sufficiently powerful to keep sand in near-constant motion and erode the fine gravel down to underlying boulders and rock.

Chakraborty, T., Sedimentology of a Proterozoic Erg - the Venkatpur Sandstone, Pranhita-Godavari Valley, South-India, Sedimentology, 38 (2), 301-322, 1991.

Reappraisal of the Late Proterozoic Venkatpur Sandstone indicates that the bulk of the sandstone is aeolian in origin. Aeolian stratification types, namely (i) inverse graded translatent strata, (ii) adhesion laminae, (iii) grainflow strata and (iv) grainfall strata, are present throughout the outcrop belt. Nine facies have been identified that represent both aeolian and related aqueous environments within a well- developed erg. Cosets of large cross-beds at the Bellampalli section in the NW of the study area record dune fields in the interior of the sand sea. To the SE, at the Godavari River and Ramgundam sections, a progressive increase in the relative proportion of the flat-bedded to cross-bedded facies and intercalated non-aeolian facies delineates the transition from the dune-field to sand-sheet environment. An alternating sequence of aeolian and marine sediments at Laknavaram, in the extreme SE, marks the termination of the sand sea. Palaeocurrent data suggest that the NW-SE trend of the sections represents a transect across the sand sea in a direction normal to the resultant primary palaewind direction. Abundant horizontally stratified units in the Vankatpur Sandstone do not always represent the interdune sediments. On the basis of the thickness and geometry of the units, nature of bounding surfaces and associated facies sequence, the facies is variously interpreted to represent interdune, inland sabkha, sand sheet and coastal sand flat deposits.

Cheel, R.J., and D.A. Leckie, A Tidal-Inlet Complex in the Cretaceous Epeiric Sea of North- America - Virgelle Member, Milk River Formation, Southern Alberta, Canada, Sedimentology, 37 (1), 67-81, 1990.


Colman, S.M., J.P. Halka, C.H. Hobbs, R.B. Mixon, and D.S. Foster, Ancient Channels of the Susquehanna River Beneath Chesapeake Bay and the Delmarva Peninsula, Geological Society of America Bulletin, 102 (9), 1268-1279, 1990.


Crain, D.A., A.B. Bolten, and K.A. Bjorndal, Effects of Beach Nourishment On Sea-Turtles - Review and Research Initiatives, Restoration Ecology, 3 (2), 95-104, 1995.

Beach nourishment is an engineering solution to erosion of beaches. As in any restoration project, the goals of beach nourishment are the restoration of habitat to promote survival of plants and animals and to maintain aesthetically pleasing sites for humans. Unfortunately, beach nourishment sometimes alters parameters of the natural beach, decreasing the reproductive success of sea turtles. Engineers have recognized this problem and are working to improve nourishment practices. Biologists must specify problems incurred by sea turtles as a result of beach nourishment so that they may be addressed. A review of the literature on sea turtles and beach nourishment found certain problems repeatedly identified. For nesting females, characteristics induced by nourishment can cause (1) beach compaction, which can decrease nesting success, alter nest-chamber geometry, and alter nest concealment, and (2) escarpments, which can block turtles from reaching nesting areas. For eggs and hatchlings, nourishment can decrease survivorship and affect development by altering beach characteristics such as sand compaction, gaseous environment, hydric environment, contaminant levels, nutrient availability, and thermal environment. Also, nests can be covered with excess sand if nourishment is implemented in areas with incubating eggs. The extent and implication of each problem are discussed, and future research initiatives are proposed.

Creed, C.G., K.R. Bodge, and C.L. Suter, Construction slopes for beach nourishment projects, Journal of Waterway Port Coastal and Ocean Engineering-Asce, 126 (1), 57-62, 2000.

The correlation between sediment grain size, tide fluctuations, and constructed beach fill slopes is investigated using as- built survey data from 18 beach nourishment projects in the southeastern United States. An engineering relationship is identified between median grain size and lower construction slope, where the latter is defined as the slope below an elevation related to the local mean tide level and tide range. A concise relationship between the upper construction slope and the beach-fill sediment characteristics was not evident in the data; instead, the as-built upper slope is more a function of the mechanical manipulation undertaken to meet the slope's specified value.

Davis, R.A., P. Wang, and B.R. Silverman, Comparison of the performance of three adjacent and differently constructed beach nourishment projects on the gulf peninsula of Florida, Journal of Coastal Research, 16 (2), 396-407, 2000.

Detailed beach-profile monitoring was conducted at the three phases of Sand Key beach nourishment on the Gulf Coast of Florida. The nourishment at Indian Rocks Beach, Indian Shores, and Redington Beach was monitored during six years, four years, and eight years respectively after nourishment. Quarterly or more frequent beach and nearshore profile surveys were conducted in order to determine short-term (1 gear) and long- term (4 to 8 years) rates of shoreline and beach-nearshore volume changes. The overall performance of the Sand Rey beach nourishment is excellent. Redington Beach project has already exceeded the design Lifetime of 7 gears, and Indian Rocks Beach and Indian Shore projects are likely to exceed the design lifetime. The measured beach-nearshore volume loss is small: 31% at Indian Rocks Beach over six years, 30% at Indian Shores over four years, and only 10% at Redington Beach during eight years. Performance of beach nourishment is influenced by many factors. Those that are directly related to the three nourishment projects include: (1) relative location in the regional longshore sediment transport regime, (2) magnitude of wave energy, (3) sediment characteristics of the borrow material, (4) local reversal and/or gradient in longshore transport, (5) presence of hard structures, (6) adjacent beach nourishment, (7) variation of shoreline orientation, and (8) sand transfer and beach-fill construction technique. The shoreline and beach-nearshore volume change patterns at the three nourishment projects were different due to the different degrees of influence from the above factors, however, construction style is deemed to be an important contributor. The much less costly dragline and conveyor-belt transfer technique used in the construction of Indian Shores project does not prove to be most cost effective for long-term performance.

Davison, A.T., R.J. Nicholls, and S.P. Leatherman, Beach Nourishment As a Coastal Management Tool - an Annotated- Bibliography On Developments Associated With the Artificial Nourishment of Beaches, Journal of Coastal Research, 8 (4), 984-1022, 1992.


Dean, R.G., and C.H. Yoo, Beach-Nourishment Performance Predictions, Journal of Waterway Port Coastal and Ocean Engineering-Asce, 118 (6), 567-586, 1992.

A simple method is developed for representing wave retraction and shoaling in the vicinity of a beach-nourishment project. The method applies for the case of a one-line model of shoreline evolution in which the active profile is displaced seaward or landward without change of form. The model can include the presence of shore-perpendicular structures and background erosion. It is recommended that shoreline modeling of beach-nourishment projects be carried out by conducting an ad hoc transformation in which the preproject contours are represented as straight and parallel. The simple method is compared to the results of a one-line model, which includes a more detailed grid-based refraction and shoaling algorithm. For all cases tested, the simple method of representing refraction and shoaling results in shoreline evolution in good correspondence with the detailed method. The models are used to illustrate the effects of several features of beach-nourishment projects of engineering interest, including: shore- perpendicular structures placed at the ends of a project with background erosion; and nourishing with material more and less transportable than the native

Dean, R.G., and C.H. Yoo, Beach Nourishment in Presence of Seawall, Journal of Waterway Port Coastal and Ocean Engineering-Asce, 120 (3), 302-316, 1994.

Beach nourishment, placed along a seawalled shoreline, can exhibit a markedly different behavior than projects on shorelines with adequate compatible sands to transport. The most striking effects of engineering significance are: (1) The migration of the centroid of the nourishment planform anomaly when acted on by oblique waves; and (2) a potentially different (currently unknown) rate of spreading of the planform anomaly. Under the most idealized considerations of uniform transport along the nourished shoreline. the speed of centroid migration is shown to increase as the planform anomaly spreads out under the mobilizing action of the waves, and the rate at which the planform spreading (dispersion) occurs is not affected by the seawall. Also, for normally incident waves, the seawall does not affect the planform evolution. Analytical, numerical, and experimental approaches are employed to demonstrate the aforementioned effects. It is shown that the transport at the ends of the project, where all the nourishment sand is submerged, can affect results substantially. These effects of the presence of a seawall on beach-nourishment project performance appear to have not been reported previously.

Dean, R.G., and C.H. Yoo, Beach Nourishment in Presence of Seawall, Journal of Waterway Port Coastal and Ocean Engineering-Asce, 121 (5), 274-274, 1995.


Delange, W.P., and T.R. Healy, The Effect of Beach Nourishment On the Sedimentology and Shellfish of Pilot Bay Beach, Mount Maunganui, New-Zealand, New Zealand Journal of Ecology, 8, 142-143, 1985.


Demirpolat, S., Surface and Near-Surface Sediments From the Continental-Shelf Off the Russian River, Northern California, Marine Geology, 99 (1-2), 163-173, 1991.

There are two basic types of detrital sediments in the study area: modern and relict. Modern sediment consists mostly of sand on the inner shelf, and silt and clay on the middle shelf. The silt and clay overlie an older transgressive sand and extend northwest-southeast with an average thickness of 10 m. This unit pinches out toward the outer shelf, where relict detrital sand dominates with some authigenic glauconite. The detrital sand is much cleaner and darker than the inner shelf sand. The important heavy minerals of the sand fraction for detecting sediment dispersal patterns are biotite, hornblende, glaucophane and glauconite. Biotite and hornblende are abundant in the southern parts of the study area close to Point Reyes Beach, and decrease in abundance northward and offshore. Glaucophane is abundant close to the Russian River mouth, and decreases in abundance southward. Glauconite is abundant on the outer shelf, and decreases in abundance southward. There are two sediment sources for the inner and middle shelf: Russian River discharge and coastal erosion, particularly of beaches, headlands and cliffs in the southern part of the area. The sand-sized sediment of the Russian River is being deposited on the inner shelf between Salt Point (to the north) and Bodega Head (to the south). The Russian River silt and clay are confined to the middle shelf. Some of this silt and clay is being transported into Bodega Submarine Canyon. The coastal material is eroded in the south and transported northward, seaward and also into Bodega Submarine Canyon.

Dobkowski, A.H., Dumptrucks versus dredges: An economic analysis of sand sources for beach nourishment, Coastal Management, 26 (4), 303-314, 1998.

This article examines the use of inland mined sand and offshore dredged sand for bench nourishment projects in North Carolina, focusing on the question of whether inland mined sand is economically preferential for hot-spot erosion control. Excavation, processing, and transport costs are presented, and cost efficiencies of hypothetical beach nourishment projects are compared. Cost analyses indicate that inland mined sand is economical for small projects (10,000-50,000 cubic yards), given that a clean sand source can be located within 15 miles of the nourishment site. The two factors primarily influencing per cubic yard costs of inland sand are overland transportation expenses and processing costs. The use of dredged offshore sand is less expensive for large projects (>100,000 cubic yards) due to the economies of scale affecting dredge mobilization. Large beach nourishment projects in North Carolina will most likely continue to utilize offshore dredged sand.

Dronkers, J., and A.G. Miltenburg, Fine sediment deposits in shelf seas, Journal of Marine Systems, 7 (2-4), 119-131, 1996.

From field observations it appears that the top layer of a shelf bottom in general exhibits an intricate geographical pattern of sediment formations. Sediments of different composition are confined in distinct regions. This contradicts the idea that current and wave forces stir up bottom sediment and disperse it in a random way over the shelf; the dispersal process is counteracted by sorting mechanisms. In this paper the bottom patterns of fine cohesive sediments are considered. A specific sorting mechanism is studied which may explain the patchy structure of fine sediment deposits. It is shown that fine sediments can be trapped in bottom deposits which contain a fine sediment fraction high enough to prevent pore water motion in the shelf bed. This mechanism opposes sediment dispersal away from existing deposits. It may also explain the formation or the preservation of mud patches, even in regions where the bottom shear stress is relatively high.

Dyke, A.S., J.E. Dale, and R.N. McNeely, Marine molluscs as indicators of environmental change in glaciated North America and Greenland during the last 18,000 years, Geographie Physique Et Quaternaire, 50 (2), 125-184, 1996.

Dated mollusc collections are classified in assemblages to map paleofaunistic zones. Hiatella arctica and Mya truncata account for almost half the records and comprise a restricted arctic assemblage. Arctic assemblages comprise 70% and arctic- dominated assemblages 80% of the database. Fifteen species dominate but 170 taxa are recorded. At last glacial maximum, the arctic zone extended from the Arctic Ocean to the Grand Banks. The boreal zone in the western Atlantic was compressed. The subarctic zone, which today dominates eastern Canada, was small. The boreal zone was extensive in the eastern Pacific where subarctic and arctic zones were compressed. Zones shifted northward during deglaciation and the arctic zone diversified when Bering Strait submerged 10.5-10.3 ka BP. Western Arctic molluscs during Younger Dryas time indicate shallow waters warmer than present. Major North Atlantic currents were established 9.5-9.0 ka BP. The subarctic zone extended to the head of Baffin Bay and a boreal zone became established in West Greenland 9-8 ka BP, with intensive changes about 8.5 ka BP. We relate the latter to the reduction of Mackenzie River discharge and in sea ice export to the North Atlantic as Laurentide ice withdrew from Mackenzie headwaters. The extended subarctic zone in Baffin Bay persisted until 3 ka BP and then retreated about 1000 km on the Canadian side. Boreal-subarctic molluscs in the Gulf of St. Lawrence before 9.5 ka BP derived from the glacial refugium. High boreal-subarctic molluscs farther north probably migrated from Europe. We postulate that the Labrador Current acts as a one-way valve for mollusc migrations at; glacial- interglacial scales.

Eitner, V., and G. Ragutzki, Effects of Artificial Beach Nourishment On Nearshore Sediment Distribution (Island of Norderney, Southern North-Sea), Journal of Coastal Research, 10 (3), 637-650, 1994.

The continuous erosion of the western spit led to artificial beach nourishment of the affected parts with sand. The aim was to ensure the stability of the solid coastal protection structures. The beach nourishment has been repeatedly carried out at irregular intervals since 1951. This paper reviews some effects of the last beach restoration on the sediment distribution in spring 1989. The beach was partly refilled with well sorted fine sand. The mean grain size of the original beach sediments was much coarser. Sediment samples were taken twice yearly to obtain an overall view of long-term changes of the sediment distribution. Samples taken at monthly intervals, mainly in the problematic zone of severe erosion, gave information on short-term changes. The grain size distribution, carbonate and heavy mineral contents were determined. At first, after the beach nourishment, a strongly decreasing grain size was detected, but soon reversed. Despite a selective erosion of finer sediment particles and the relative enrichment of coarser grains, the grain size spectrum of the beach refilling as it was before the replenishment was observed in the spring of 1991. The natural grain size distribution which is in an equilibrium with the hydrodynamic forces was produced by erosion of the beach material. The fine grained sand used as the refill is a ''foreign'' material that does not correspond to the boundary conditions at this site. The examination of heavy minerals provides information about transport directions of the beach and shoreface sediments. It shows that the cross- shore transport is dominant within the groin-fields. The grain size of the sediments of the refilled area does not differ very much from those of the shoreface sediments, and thus this parameter is unsuitable for an analysis of the along-shore transport of the sediment. Although, an eastward and southward along-shore transport could be revealed from the refilled beach section after the nourishment. A survey of the beach and shoreface morphology provides additional information on the sediment transport and temporal sediment volume development.

Emery, K.O., J.M. Bremner, and J. Rogers, Hypsometry of Divergent and Translational Continental Margins of Southern Africa, Marine Geology, 106 (1-2), 89-105, 1992.

Flattenings that may be shelves formed by marine erosion/deposition or by slump masses are present on continental margins of southern Africa that border both the Atlantic and Indian oceans. Breaks in slope, indicated along sounding lines, suggest that a shallow terrace of the Atlantic margin has been warped downward from depths of about 130 m southward to about 200 m, and a deeper terrace lies between depths of about 150 m to about 440 m. Examination of contours and hypsometry (areas measured between depth contours) show widespread flattenings at about -65 and -95 m on the Indian Ocean margin and -125, -155, and -190 m along the Atlantic margin. Seismic profiles indicate that some of these and other more local flattenings are on slump blocks and thus are not correlatable for long distances. An additional complication is that sediment introduced by rivers is transported alongshore by wave-induced and oceanic bottom currents, and that their deltas are ephemeral.

Ercilla, G., B. Alonso, and J. Baraza, Post-Calabrian Sequence Stratigraphy of the Northwestern Alboran Sea (Southwestern Mediterranean), Marine Geology, 120 (3-4), 249-265, 1994.

The post-Calabrian sedimentary column of the northwestern Alboran Sea comprises three depositional sequences. The two older depositional sequences are defined by lowstand systems tracts (shelf-margin deltas, slope, base-of-slope, and basin deposits, and the Guadiaro channel-levee complex). In contrast, the most recent depositional sequence also includes transgressive (relict shelf facies) and high-stand (the Guadalmedina-Guadalhorce prodelta and hemipelagic facies) systems tracts. The stratigraphic architecture of these depositional sequences is controlled by the synchronism between high frequency sea-level changes, variations in sediment supply, and sedimentary processes. The configuration of the depositional sequences is variable and their distribution is complex, as a result of the relative importance played by sea- level changes and tectonism through the area. The sequence boundaries are represented by polygenetic surfaces in the proximal margin, and by monogenetic surfaces in the distal margin and basin. Each polygenetic surface results from the interaction between the sequence boundary with the lowstand erosional truncation surface and the transgressive surface, both developed during the previous sea-level cycle. The monogenetic surfaces correspond to unconformities and their correlative conformities, formed during sea-level lowstands. This pattern of depositional sequences developed in the margin and basin of the northwestern Alboran Sea shows differences with the Exxon Sequence Stratigraphy Model as traditionally applied: sea-level change control is essentially recognized through lowstand systems tracts, and sequence boundary coincides with lowstand erosional truncation surface and transgressive surface, both developed during the previous sea- level cycle.

Field, M.E., Buried Strandline Deposits On Central-Florida Inner Continental-Shelf, Geological Society of America Bulletin, 85 (1), 57-60, 1974.


Flessa, K.W., A.H. Cutler, and K.H. Meldahl, Time and Taphonomy - Quantitative Estimates of Time-Averaging and Stratigraphic Disorder in a Shallow Marine Habitat, Paleobiology, 19 (2), 266-286, 1993.

We examined the radiocarbon age, taphonomic condition and stratigraphic position of shells of the venerid bivalve Chione spp. from the tidal flats of Bahia la Choya, Sonora, Mexico. Shells in Bahia la Choya are time-averaged. Thirty shells yielded radiocarbon dates from modern (A.D. 1950 or younger) to 3569 years before present. The median calendar age of inner flat shells is 483 years; the median age of tidal channel shells is 427 years. We interpret such long shell survival to be the result of frequent shallow burial. Such burial retards bioerosion of shells. The taphonomic condition of shells varied with environment. Shells from the surface of the inner flats were better preserved than shells from the tidal channel. Shells are more likely to be physically worn and biologically degraded in the waters of the channel than on the quieter and more frequently exposed inner tidal flat. Taphonomic condition is an unreliable indicator of a shell's time-since-death. Poorly-preserved shells on the inner flats tended to be old, but in general shell condition was much more variable than shell age. A shell's condition is more likely the result of its total residence time on the surface than its time-since-death (surface time plus burial time). Two composite short (44 cm and 50 cm) cores revealed varying degrees of stratigraphic disorder (the departure from perfect correlation between relative stratigraphic position and relative age). One of eight shells in the inner flats core was disordered; four of nine shells in the tidal channel were disordered. The actual age range of surface shells approximates the age range of shells in cores. Stratigraphic disorder is a consequence of both time-averaging and physical and biogenic mixing. Time-averaging controls the degree of precision possible in paleoecological studies. Environmental changes and ecological phenomena occurring within a span of 3500 years would not be recognized in deposits like those of Bahia la Choya. Time-averaging and stratigraphic disorder also constrain the temporal resolution possible in microstratigraphic studies of evolution. The extent of time- averaging and stratigraphic disorder will dictate an appropriate sample interval. In order to prevent temporal overlap between successive samples in deposits like Bahia la Choya, sample spacing should not be less than approximately 0.5 m.

Foyle, A.M., and G.F. Oertel, Seismic Stratigraphy and Coastal Drainage Patterns in the Quaternary Section of the Southern Delmarva Peninsula, Virginia, Usa, Sedimentary Geology, 80 (3-4), 261-277, 1992.

Seismic-stratigraphic analysis of the coastal zone and inner shelf of Virginia's southern Delmarva Peninsula has revealed three geochronologically significant surfaces of post-Tertiary age that impose a relative chronostratigraphic framework on Quaternary marine transgressive and regressive events. Characteristics of these surfaces indicate that two are sequence boundaries, and one is a ravinement surface. Lying at depths of 18-70 m (msl datum), the LP(b) surface (a late Pleistocene basal unconformity) represents the sequence boundary separating the Tertiary Chesapeake Group from the overlying late Pleistocene Nassawadox Formation. High relief (approximately 50 m) on the LP(b), surface is associated with large fluvial channels. Higher in the stratigraphic section, the LP(r) surface is found at depths of 6-28 m, and corresponds to a late Pleistocene transgressive, or ravinement surface. The surface dips southeastward with a regional dip of 0.04-degrees and has local relief of less than 2 m. The LP(r) surface may represent a ravinement which extended to the west side of the Chesapeake Bay prior to the development of the Nassawadox barrier spit. However, the LP(r) surface may steepen between the axis of the southern Delmarva Peninsula and the Holocene lagoon to form a shoreface attached to one of several known late Pleistocene shorelines. Lying at depths of 0-20 m, the H(b) surface is a basal unconformity that marks the Holocene sequence boundary. It deepens seaward, with maximum local relief of about 15 m, and has a topographic expression very similar to the present-day lagoonal drainage pattern. Maximum thicknesses of Holocene and Pleistocene sediments (12 and 70 m, respectively) are found above channels on the H(b) and LP(b) surfaces. The Pleistocene channels are large and limited in number and represent high-order channels of a drainage system that drained the Piedmont and Coastal Plain. The greater density of low-order stream channels on the H(b) surface suggests a relationship to much smaller drainage basins that were confined to the seaward part of the Coastal Plain east of the Delmarva Peninsula. These late Wisconsinan smaller H(b) channels do not re-occupy the former drain paths of the much larger high-order LP(b) channels.

Foyle, A.M., and G.F. Oertel, Transgressive systems tract development and incised-valley fills within a Quaternary estuary-shelf system: Virginia inner shelf, USA, Marine Geology, 137 (3-4), 227-249, 1997.

High-frequency Quaternary glacioeustasy resulted in the incision of six moderate- to high-relief fluvial erosion surfaces beneath the Virginia inner shelf and coastal zone along the updip edges of the Atlantic continental margin. Fluvial valleys up to 5 km wide, with up to 37 m of relief and thalweg depths of up to 72 m below modern mean sea level, cut through underlying Pleistocene and Mio-Pliocene strata in response to drops in baselevel on the order of 100 m. Fluvially incised valleys were significantly modified during subsequent marine transgressions as fluvial drainage basins evolved into estuarine embayments (ancestral generations of the Chesapeake Bay), Complex incised-valley hh successions are bounded by, or contain, up to four stacked erosional surfaces (basal fluvial erosion surface, bay ravinement, tidal ravinement, and ebb- flood channel-base diastem) in vertical succession. These surfaces, combined with the transgressive oceanic ravinement that generally caps incised-valley fills, control the lateral and vertical development of intervening seismic facies (depositional systems). Transgressive stratigraphy characterizes the Quaternary section beneath the Virginia inner shelf where six depositional sequences (Sequences I-VI) are identified. Depositional sequences consist primarily of estuarine depositional systems (subjacent to the transgressive oceanic ravinement) and shoreface-shelf depositional systems; highstand systems tract coastal systems are thinly developed. The Quaternary section can be broadly subdivided into two parts. The upper part contains sequences consisting predominantly of inner shelf facies, whereas sequences in the lower part of the section consist predominantly of estuarine facies. Three styles of sequence preservation are identified. Style 1, represented by Sequences VI and V, is characterized by large estuarine systems (ancestral generations of the Chesapeake Bay) that are up to 40 m thick, have hemicylindrical wedge geometries, and occur within large, coast-oblique trending depressions (paleo-estuaries). Style 1 is dominated by fluvial through estuary-mouth depositional systems (Seismic Facies 1-4). Style 2 sequence preservation, represented by Sequences III and II, is dominantly an inner shelf and shoreface succession with a seaward-thickening tabular wedge geometry that does not exceed 15 m in thickness. These shoreface and inner shelf depositional systems of the upper transgressive systems tract (Seismic Facies 9) apd highstand systems tract (Seismic Facies 7 and 11) are not associated with paleo-estuaries. Style 3 sequence preservation is represented by Sequence I, the Holocene Sequence. It consists of lower transgressive systems tract fluival-estuarine, lagoonal, and tidal-inlet fill deposits (Seismic Facies 1-6, and 8) overlain by upper transgressive systems tract shelf and Shoreface sands (Seismic Facies 9). Style 3 has a crenulated wedge geometry, and is thickest beneath and seaward of the modern Chesapeake Bay mouth. It thins northward and landward onto Late Pleistocene interfluvial highs on the basinward side of the southern Delmarva Peninsula.

Gibson, D.J., J.S. Ely, and P.B. Looney, A Markovian approach to modeling succession on a coastal barrier island following beach nourishment, Journal of Coastal Research, 13 (3), 831-841, 1997.

Markov models are used to understand and predict future successional pathways of vegetation on a barrier island off the coast of northwest Florida following massive beach nourishment below mean high water (MHW) in late 1990. Discriminant Analysis and Two-Way Indicator Species Analysis were used to classify permanent plots surveyed annually in the autumn above old MHW from 1989 to 1993 into one of eight vegetation types (strand, wooded dunes, back slopes, dunes, dry swales, wet swales, marsh or empty). Annual change in the classification of individual plots was used to derive transition matrices that give the probability that a plot will be classified in a subsequent year as a different vegetation type, or remain the same. Transition matrices derived from separate years indicate that overall successional dynamics of the vegetation above old MHW did not change following deposition of the dredge spoil below old MHW. The modeling procedure allowed the potential vegetation dynamics of the barrier island to be projected so that the effects of management and natural disturbance can be assessed quantitatively. Markov model simulation of vegetation development on the dredge spoil, showed that primary succession was proceeding according to the vegetation dynamics above old MHW, but at a rate slower than predicted. It is postulated that the slow rate of primary succession on the dredge spoil was due to natural disturbances, such as flooding by the storm surge accompanying Hurricane Andrew in August 1992. Inclusion of hurricane effects (frequency, based upon historical records, and intensity) in a subsequent simulation suggests that the stable state predicted by the model is unlikely to be reached. This model provides a theoretical developmental pattern for the vegetation on the dredge spoil to be established against which future patterns may be compared. The model also allows the ecological success of the nourishment project to be judged quantitatively.

Gillespie, J.L., and C.S. Nelson, Distribution and control of mixed terrigenous-carbonate surficial sediment facies, Wanganui shelf, New Zealand, New Zealand Journal of Geology and Geophysics, 39 (4), 533-549, 1996.

Shallow-marine, mixed temperate, terrigenous-carbonate sediments are accumulating on the shallow to deep Wanganui shelf(c. 20-110 m water depth). From cluster analysis of textural and compositional parameters, five surficial sediment facies and five subfacies have been defined for the shelf. Facies 1 (Bivalve-beating [gravelly] sand), is a terrigenous- dominated,. shallow shelf facies (<50 m), incorporating Subfacies la (Sand)-a modern felsic sand prism-and Ib (Bivalve- bearing volcaniclastic gravelly sand)-modern to relict andesitic detritus and shell fragments. Facies 2 (Skeletal- dominated sandy gravel) comprises sediments containing >50% CaCO3, and occurs in the shallow to mid shelf region (c. 30-90 m) where: levels of terrigenous input are reduced, and substrates and hydraulic conditions are favourable for carbonate production. Facies 2 comprises Subfacies 2a (Bivalve- dominated sandy gravel), 2b (Bryozoan/bivalve-dominated sandy gravel), and 2c (Bryozoan/bivalve-dominated muddy sandy gravel and gravelly muddy sand). Facies 2 sediments are <c. 800 yr old. Facies 3 (Bivalve-bearing muddy sand) (75-110 m) contains moderate amounts of skeletal material (up to c. 3000 yr old) because of dilution by the terrigenous sediment that characterises Facies 4 (Mud) (85-110 m). The latter constitutes the northern reaches of the Cook Strait Basin mud depocentre and receives sediment from North and South Islands. Facies 5 (Micaceous sand) (95-105 m) is derived chiefly from west coast South Island material swept into Greater Cook Strait by wind- induced and oceanic currents. The overall pattern of surficial sediment facies distribution is determined by the interplay between factors controlling the separate terrigenous and carbonate fractions. These include Wanganui shelf's tectonic setting, the surrounding onland geology, storm-dominated hydraulic regime, bathymetry, and substrate type. The mixed terrigenous-carbonate shelf record affords a modern analogue for interpreting glacio-eustatic cyclothemic facies widely developed in uplifted Pliocene-Pleistocene deposits in onland Wanganui, as well as contributing to facies refinements in the developing model of nontropical shelf carbonate sedimentation.

Giordano, A., and J. Rowland, Use of federal sand for beach nourishment and shore protection projects, Marine Georesources & Geotechnology, 17 (2-3), 91-97, 1999.

Coastal shoreline protection and beach nourishment are significant issues for coastal states along the Atlantic and Gulf coasts. In some areas, there is a critical need to identify suitable sources of sand for possible use in public works; projects for coastal protection. The continental shelf contains large resources of sand and gravel that could be used to support such projects. The U.S. Department of the Interior's (DOI) Minerals Management Service (MMS) provides policy direction and guidance for development of the resources located on the federal portion of the continental shelf This article highlights the MMS's Sand Program, focusing on its cooperative resource and environmental studies with several coastal states, significant milestones and accomplishments, and anticipated activities in 1998 and beyond. Management of sand resources on the federal portion of the continental shelf has been made easier by a federal-state partnership concept. Using this cooperative concept, joint projects are being conducted to investigate offshore sand resources, potential sites, extraction methods, and related environmental conditions. The MMS has procedures for negotiating sand agreements under the Outer Continental Shelf Lands Act (OCSLA) and ensuring that the resources are developed in an environmentally sound manner. The authority to negotiate with project sponsors, an important recent change in the OCSLA, also resides with the MMS. This 1992 change in OCSLA facilitates the use of Outer Continental Shelf (OCS) resources for public projects. Further, the MMS is authorized to assess a fee based on the value of the resource and the public interest served The MMS has worked with local sponsors and authorized the use of OCS sand for two projects. However additional resource and environmental projects, as well as negotiated agreements, are anticipated within the near future with states and local governments along the Atlantic and Gulf coasts.

Glover, C.P., and S.M. Kidwell, Influence of Organic Matrix On the Postmortem Destruction of Molluscan Shells, Journal of Geology, 101 (6), 729-747, 1993.

To examine the role of organic constituents in the destruction of calcium carbonate skeletons, we aged fresh shells of the bivalves Nucula sulcata (organic-rich nacreous aragonites with low crystallite surface areas) and Cerastoderma edule (organic- poor porcellaneous aragonites, high crystallite surface areas) under both sterile and non-sterile (''microbial'') conditions in aragonite-undersaturated, -saturated, and -supersaturated seawaters for periods up to 11 months. Deterioration was tracked by SEM and weight-loss, and compared to damage produced by reagents of specific effect. The same qualitative sequence of damage was observed in all tanks for both species, but rates of deterioration were greater than or equal to 2 x higher in microbial than in sterile tanks at a given saturation state, and were as high or higher in the microbial saturated and supersaturated tanks than in the sterile undersaturated tank. Damage to shell surfaces was limited almost entirely to loss of organic matrix, which eventually exposed and loosened surficial crystallites. Mineral dissolution in undersaturated tanks was apparently limited to crystallites occurring as loose particulate matter, as direct pitting of shell surfaces was rare. Shells of organic-rich aragonites did not suffer greater weight loss than those with organic-poor aragonites, but in microbial tanks they did suffer more rapid and intense microboring. The only macroscopic evidence of microstructural deterioration was a loss of surface sheen. The experiments show that intraskeletal matrix plays a more complex role in the persistence of calcium carbonate shells than generally appreciated, and that the dynamics of dissolution for fresh biogenic carbonates may differ significantly from the behavior of aged or organic-free carbonate grains used in most laboratory studies. Organics initially protect crystallites (evidenced by slow shell deterioration in sterile tanks): this may counterbalance the effects of undersaturated water and high crystallite surface areas for at least the first several months of aging. With progressive breakdown, however, organics increase shell vulnerability to crystallite-by-crystallite disintegration and, as a microbial substrate, appear to fuel dissolution and microboring. Organic-rich microstructures thus may ultimately have lower preservation potential than organic- poor types. Only after intercrystalline organics have been lost should shell destruction be dominated by mineralogy, microstructural surface area, and ion adsorption. The initial period of low mineral reactivity in fresh shells may help to explain why in situ sediments show lower dissolution rates than expected from laboratory measurements. The experiments also suggest that no aerobic environment should be considered as taphonomically or diagenetically neutral, since matrix decomposes in supersaturated waters and even under sterile conditions, albeit slowly. This overall vulnerability of organic-rich microstructures suggests the potential for systematic biases in the taxonomic and age-class composition of fossil datasets, since ecological groups and evolutionary lineages differ in their shells' microstructures, and since the proportion of organics within carbonate skeletons may vary both with latitude and through individual ontogeny.

Goodbred, S.L., E.E. Wright, and A.C. Hine, Sea-level change and storm-surge deposition in a late Holocene Florida salt marsh, Journal of Sedimentary Research, 68 (2), 240-252, 1998.

A 300-km length of west Florida's coastline is dominated by an open-marine coastal marsh system, Located along the central part of this sediment poor region, Waccasassa Bay is presently a broad, shallow embayment rimmed by an expansive Juncus roemerianus salt marsh, In this system, sediments were first deposited in a forested swamp from similar to 4400 to 1800 cal yr BP, Contemporaneously, large oyster reefs grew in the embayment near a paleo-river mouth. These deposits indicate a period of slow sea-level rise during the Late Holocene that correlates with the establishment or regression of other west Florida coastal systems. Circa 1800 cal yr BP, a rapid transgression of 2-4 km led to salt marsh growth over the former swamp, and a brackish marsh developed over a previously unflooded upland surface. Calculated rates of shoreline retreat are 10 to > 20 m/yr at this time and compare to < 3.0 m/yr during most of the Late Holocene. Timing of the event in Waccasassa Bay corresponds with transgressive sequences in other Atlantic and Gulf coast systems and supports a relative sea-level fluctuation ca. 1800 cal yr BP. Following this event, sediments overstepped during the transgression were reworked onto the low-lying tidal marsh, Rapid accretion along the shore edge outpaced sea-level rise and led to the local development of high intertidal and supratidal levees, Evidence indicates that storm-driven surge was the principal mechanism of sediment transport for these deposits, In Waccasassa Bay, storm surge deposition has played a significant role in marsh surface accretion, distinguishing the system from more typically tide- dominated wetlands, Within the past similar to 150 years, most of the supratidal environment became tidally inundated and there was a widespread transition into the modern salt marsh. This change and evidence from adjacent portions of the Florida coast implicate a rise in sea level within the past several hundred years.

Greenstein, B.J., and H.A. Moffat, Comparative taphonomy of modern and Pleistocene corals, San Salvador, Bahamas, Palaios, 11 (1), 57-63, 1996.

The taphonomic condition of the corals Acropora cervicornis and A. palmata obtained from two facies of the late Pleistocene Cockburn Town fossil reef was compared to that of modern, subfossil specimens of the same taxa collected from analagous environments. The extent of coverage by potentially preservable and preserved encrusting organisms (coraline algae, worm tubes, bryozoans and corals) and borer organisms (clionid sponges, lithophagid bivalves) was recorded. The degree to which the material had been abraded by a variety of processes was also recorded. Results revealed that the Holocene corals were significantly (alpha = 0.05) more degraded than those preserved in the Pleistocene facies, suggesting that the Pleistocene corals were exposed on. the sea floor for less time than the Holocene material currently residing on the sea floor. The recent history of the reefs from which the Holocene corals were collected suggests this interval to be less than ten years; however, sedimentologic evidence indicates that a single storm event buried and killed the Cockburn Town reef during late Pleistocene time. The taphonomic analysis presented here supports this conclusion.

Gross, T.F., and F.E. Werner, Residual Circulations Due to Bottom Roughness Variability Under Tidal Flows, Journal of Physical Oceanography, 24 (7), 1494-1502, 1994.

Tidal flows over irregular bathymetry are known to produce residual circulation flows due to nonlinear interaction with gradients of depth. Using the depth-averaged vorticity equations, the generation of residual vorticity and residual flows due to variation of the frictional coefficient are examined. The authors find that the contribution due to bottom roughness variations can be as large as that arising from gradients of depth and velocity. Specific cases are considered on the northern California shelf, Georges Bank, and the U.S. South Atlantic Bight. The generation of residual vorticity is a strong function of the length scales at which roughness or depth vary. Length scales of bottom roughness variation are commonly within the range of greatest effect (e.g., sand patchiness, cobbly outcrops, etc.). The site-specific cases show that the bottom roughness variability can generate as much residual circulation as that expected from depth variability. The implication for numerical modeling studies is that resolution of roughness variability is as important as resolution of topography at length scales comparable to the tidal excursion. Therefore higher-resolution models that seek to resolve flow patterns due to tidal scale topographic variability will also require similarly resolved bottom roughness variability.

Guillen, J., and P. Hoekstra, Sediment distribution in the nearshore zone: Grain size evolution in response to shoreface nourishment (Island of Terschelling, The Netherlands), Estuarine Coastal and Shelf Science, 45 (5), 639-652, 1997.

The natural sediment distribution in the littoral zone of Terschelling, The Netherlands was disturbed by a shoreface nourishment carried out off the central part of the island. The sedimentological impact of this shoreface nourishment, i.e. the grain size evolution and the sediment dynamics, is studied in order to increase understanding of coastal processes. The variability of the sediment during the study period is due to both natural processes and the nourishment. Immediately after implementation of the nourishment, the sediment distribution was measurably affected. The sediment supplied caused a coarsening (20-40 mu m) of the sediment in the zone directly affected by the nourishment. Six months after the nourishment, the grain size distribution across the profile was nearly the same as the original, and no significant effects of the nourishment could be recognized in the median grain size. Individual grain size fractions displayed a temporal evolution more complex than the median size, and significant changes, unrelated to the sand supplied, were observed. Results of the sediment analysis from the coastal zone of Terschelling indicate that the shoreface nourishment only had a short-term and very local impact on the sediment distribution. Some months after the nourishment, the former grain size distribution was re-established. This implies that the nourished sediment was quickly dispersed and mixed with the original deposits, and that it only represents a small part of the Volume of sediment involved in the dynamics of the littoral zone. On a yearly perspective, the natural variability of the sediment was higher than the changes caused by the nourishment. (C) 1997 Academic Press Limited.

Haddad, T.C., and O.H. Pilkey, Summary of the New England beach nourishment experience (1935- 1996), Journal of Coastal Research, 14 (4), 1395-1404, 1998.

Data from 121 nourished beaches in New England are presented, representing over 170 individual nourishment episodes. The regional-nourishment episode record is less fragmented at the federal level than at the state, local, or private levels. Most nourishment episodes in New England are small (<100,000 cubic yards) and state/locally funded. The total number and volume of nourishment episodes completed annually in the region is declining, and the cumulative volume of nourishment sand in the region has plateaued over time. Total known volume of sand emplaced is 12,550,881 cubic yards with 105 of 173 episodes included in this sum.

Hald, M., and P.I. Steinsund, Distribution of Surface Sediment Benthic Foraminifera in the Southwestern Barents Sea, Journal of Foraminiferal Research, 22 (4), 347-362, 1992.

We have studied the distribution of living and dead benthic foraminifera in surface sediment samples in the southwestern Barents Sea. Based on the 13 most important benthic species among a total of 165 species, we have identified four assemblages (AS) using factor analysis: Nonion AS, Trifarina- Cibicides AS, Reophax AS and Epistominella AS. Generally, the faunal assemblages correlate well to summer bottom water temperatures and/or to sediment texture, carbonate content and organic carbon. The Nonion assemblage is positively correlated to the surface sediment pelite content and negatively correlated with the sediment carbonate content. The Trifarina- Cibicides AS correlates to the warmest bottom waters (about 5- degrees-C) and coarser sediments. The Reophax AS is found in colder waters (2-4-degrees-C) and correlates positively to the organic carbon content in the surface sediments. The Epistominella AS is influenced by reworking.

Harris, P.T., and P.E. Obrien, Geomorphology and sedimentology of the continental shelf adjacent to Mac Robertson Land, East Antarctica: A scalped shelf, Geo-Marine Letters, 16 (4), 287-296, 1996.

During the Quaternary, the Mac. Robertson shelf of East Antarctica was deeply eroded by glaciers and currents exposing the underlying basement, resulting in a scalped shelf. Major geomorphic zones are: (1) high-relief, ridge and valley topography (200-1400 m); (2) smooth sea floors associated with low-energy, depositional shelf valleys and basins (400-800 m); (3) low-relief, planated bank-tops (100-200 m); and (4) iceberg gouged and current reworked seaward-bank margins and upper slope (200 to <630 m). About 90% of the shelf's surface has net erosional conditions and about 10% is net depositional. The sedimentary processes and deposits may be common to large areas of the East Antarctic margin.

Hayden, B., and R. Dolan, Impact of Beach Nourishment On Distribution of Emerita- Talpoida, Common Mole Crab, Journal of the Waterways Harbors and Coastal Engineering Division-Asce, 100 (WW2), 123-132, 1974.


Henry, M.S., Changes in Property-Values As a Measure of Public Project Benefits - the Case of Beach Nourishment On a Barrier-Island, American Journal of Agricultural Economics, 70 (5), 1210-1210, 1988.


Hequette, A., and P.R. Hill, Storm-Generated Currents and Offshore Sediment Transport On a Sandy Shoreface, Tibjak Beach, Canadian Beaufort Sea, Marine Geology, 113 (3-4), 283-304, 1993.

Waves and currents were measured for three weeks in 3.4 and 5.0 m water depths on the sandy shoreface of Tibjak Beach, located on the eastern side of Kugmallit Bay in the Canadian Beaufort Sea. During the field study, five significant wind events resulted in strong shore-normal components of surface wind stress which induced sea level set-up at the coast. Because of the coastline configuration, storm surge conditions and horizontal pressure gradients varied along the eastern side of the bay as a function of small changes in wind direction. One of the westerly storms was responsible for raising the water level by 0.96 m above mean sea level in the nearshore zone. Northwesterly winds resulted in less significant storm surges at Tibjak Beach, but induced higher water levels to the south, near the head of the bay. During the northwesterly storms, strong seaward-directed near-bottom currents associated with downwelling conditions were observed. These currents, with mean velocity up to 0.49 m s-1, are believed to be primarily driven by wind-induced hydrostatic pressure gradients caused by the set-up of coastal waters. Once they began to develop, the seaward currents were directed offshore for periods of at least 6 to 9 consecutive hours; during one storm, near-bottom currents were flowing offshore for more than 18 hours. High wave orbital velocities were measured during these events which induced significant sediment remobilization as the threshold of sediment motion under oscillatory flow was largely exceeded. Because medium- to fine-grained sands prevail on the shoreface, a significant sediment transport load is probably moved down the shoreface by such currents during major events, thus contributing to offshore sediment dispersal.

Hequette, A., and P.R. Hill, Response of the Seabed to Storm-Generated Combined Flows On a Sandy Arctic Shoreface, Canadian-Beaufort Sea, Journal of Sedimentary Research Section a-Sedimentary Petrology and Processes, 65 (3), 461-471, 1995.

Wave and current measurements in 3.4 and 5.0 m water depths on a sandy shoreface of the Canadian Beaufort Sea showed that a down-welling circulation, accompanied by strong offshore- flowing near-bottom currents, develops during storm surges induced by northwesterly winds. Because fine to medium sand prevails on the shoreface, a significant sediment load is probably moved down the shoreface by such currents during major storms. A sidescan sonar profile recorded in 4.4 m water depth, the day after a storm with seaward-directed currents with mean velocity up to 0.49 m s(-1), revealed the presence of narrow bands of large ripples (0.7-0.8 m wavelength) with crests almost parallel to shore. On the basis of theoretical calculations relating the wavelength of wave-formed ripples to wave orbital diameter, the observed ripples were probably formed or reactivated during a storm in response to bed-orbital motion of surface gravity waves. On the sonograph, the ripple bands were separated by less reflective areas interpreted as current-parallel sand patches formed by seaward-flowing bottom currents. Cores taken on the shoreface at the end of the wave and current measurement period showed the presence of thick graded sand beds, which are thought to be the products of rapid deposition of sand from suspension during the waning phase of a recent storm. Such beds may be the modern analogues of graded sand beds in ancient wave-dominated sequences and could indicate waning storm sedimentation in shallow fetch-limited environments.

Hesp, P.A., M.J. Shepherd, and K. Parnell, Coastal geomorphology in New Zealand, 1989-99, Progress in Physical Geography, 23 (4), 501-524, 1999.

This article reviews coastal geomorphological research published in New Zealand or international journals which has been carried out in New Zealand during the past ten years. All coastal environments are covered, including tidal inlets, estuaries and lagoons, beach, surfzone, nearshore and shelf environments, and rocky coasts. Applied coastal studies are also covered. While the New Zealand coastal science community remains relatively small, a significant body of work has been carried out, much of it innovative and unique. However, with 11 000 km of very diverse coastline covering 13 degrees of latitude available for study there are many areas, geographical as well as disciplinary, that remain poorly researched.

Hilton, M.J., Sediment Facies of an Embayed Coastal Sand Body, Pakiri, New- Zealand, Journal of Coastal Research, 11 (2), 529-547, 1995.

A sedimentological investigation was conducted across the Pakiri-Mangawhai sand body located on the east coast of the Northland Peninsula, New Zealand. Nearshore, inner continental shelf and mid shelf depositional environments are recognised. The sand body extends seaward as a continuous accumulation of relatively mud-free unconsolidated sand from the landward extent of the coastal dunes to the 45 m isobath, approximately 4,500 m offshore, at the base of the inner shelf. The Pakiri- Mangawhai sand body is characterised by a regular pattern of morphological components and associated sediment types. In profile, the nearshore displays a concave geometry that extends to approximately the 22 m isobath, 1,500 m or so offshore. The inner shelf displays a convex or irregular profile and extends seaward of the nearshore to a break of slope at the 45 m isobath, approximately 4,500 m offshore, where the mid shelf commences. Nearshore gradients range between 0.4 degrees and 1.8 degrees, inner shelf 0.1 degrees to 0.6 degrees and mid shelf 0 degrees to 0.15 degrees. Three subtidal sediment facies are recognised. Nearshore sediments comprise fine, very well sorted sands of 2 phi (0.25 mm) mean grain size. Inner shelf sediments grade offshore from medium to coarse sands (Mz = 0.0- 0.5 phi, 0.71-1.00 mm) with some very coarse sand and fine gravel present. In contrast, the sediments of the mid shelf in Pakiri Bay are very fine sands (Mz = 2.0-2.5 phi, 0.177-0.250 mm), with a relatively high mud content (5-10%). Carbonate skeletal debris, derived mostly from mollusca, comprises a significant proportion of inner and mid shelf sediments, increasing offshore from 0-5% across the nearshore to 30% at the base of the inner shelf. The size-graded bed of the nearshore and inner shelf is consistent with diabathic sediment transport resulting in the preferential shorewards transport of the fine sand fraction of the sediments of the inner shelf. Shoaling gravity waves have the potential to disturb sediments to at least the base of the inner shelf, however, wind generated and other currents may also be significant. Sediment exchange between the mid shelf and inner shelf is unlikely and the Pakiri-Mangawhai sand body is in effect a closed sediment system. Sand mined from the nearshore must result in a net loss of sediment from the sand body, and the sand resource should be considered finite.

Jones, S.R., and W.R. Mangun, Beach nourishment and public policy after Hurricane Floyd: where do we go from here?, Ocean & Coastal Management, 44 (3-4), 207-220, 2001.

This paper examines the public policy and implementation of beach nourishment within the context of the aftermath of Hurricane Floyd. It further examines the deficiencies of current policies impacting decision making. Some of the factors ignored in the decision making are: enhancement of the ecology of the beach, especially in terms of sea turtle nesting grounds; socio-cultural impacts, i.e. cost-benefit analysis of tourism, historical life-way patterns, community tax base; sand source allocation and forward contracting: and the adverse impact of current FEMA disaster2 insurance policies. The findings indicate a need for major revisions to FEMA's policies, the parameters used for designing nourishment projects, and the need to include other cost/benefits, such as tourism, when scoping the project. Recommended policy changes are included in the concluding section as a basis of discussion - not as definitive procedures. (C) 2001 Elsevier Science Ltd. All rights reserved.

Kadomatsu, T., T. Uda, and K. Fujiwara, Beach Nourishment and Field Observation of Beach Changes On the Toban Coast Facing Seto Inland Sea, Marine Pollution Bulletin, 23, 155-159, 1991.

The topographic changes after the beach nourishment conducted at the Toban Coast are investigated on the basis of the bottom sounding data. The stability of the nourished beach on the coast where wave direction seasonally changes is studied in detail. The effectiveness of groins to contain nourished sand is discussed.

Kana, T.W., and R.K. Mohan, Analysis of nourished profile stability following the fifth Hunting Island (SC) beach nourishment project, Coastal Engineering, 33 (2-3), 117-136, 1998.

A comparison of the geotechnical properties of beach fill vs. borrow area sediments for the fifth Hunting Island (SC) beach nourishment project is presented in this paper. Sediment samples were taken from the beach and borrow area to characterize pre-nourishment (1990) and post-nourishment (1993) conditions, Grain-size frequency curves were developed for these samples which were then used to perform the geotechnical analyses. The results indicate that post-nourishment profile stability can be improved measurably by variations in grain- size distribution, specifically where a coarse fraction is present (i.e., negative skewness), In other words, by using borrow sediments that are coarser than native, the nourished profile will adjust to a steeper configuration, producing a wider dry beach, Other factors influencing profile durability include fill placement techniques and environmental factors (waves, currents, storms, etc.). (C) 1998 Elsevier Science B.V.

Kerckaert, P., P.P.L. Roovers, A. Noordam, and P. Decandt, Artificial Beach Nourishment On Belgian East-Coast - Discussion, Journal of Waterway Port Coastal and Ocean Engineering-Asce, 112 (5), 560-571, 1986.


Kidwell, S.M., and K.W. Flessa, The Quality of the Fossil Record - Populations, Species, and Communities, Annual Review of Ecology and Systematics, 26, 269-299, 1995.

Paleontologists have always been concerned about the documentary quality of the fossil record, and this has also become an important issue for biologists, who increasingly look to accumulations of bones, shells, and plant material as possible ways to extend the time-frame of observation on species and community behaviors. Quantitative data on the postmortem behavior of organic remains in modern environments are providing new insights into death and fossil assemblages as sources of biological information. Important findings include: 1. With the exception of a few circumstances, usually recognizable by independent criteria, transport out of the original life habitat affects few individuals. 2. Most species with preservable hardparts are in fact represented in the local death assemblage, commonly in correct rank importance. Molluscs are the most durable of modern aquatic groups studied so far, and they show highest fidelity to the original community. 3. Time-averaging of remains from successive generations and communities often prevents the detection of shortterm (seasons, years) variability but provides an excellent record of the natural range of community composition and structure over longer periods. Thus, although a complex array of processes and circumstances influences preservation, death assemblages of resistant skeletal elements are for many major groups good to excellent records of community composition, morphological variation, and environmental and geographic distribution of species, and such assemblages can record temporal dynamics at ecologically and evolutionarily meaningful scales.

Kidwell, S.M., and K.W. Flessa, The quality of the fossil record: Populations, species, and communities (Reprinted from Annual Review of Ecology and Systematics, vol 26, 1995), Annual Review of Earth and Planetary Sciences, 24, 433-464, 1996.

Paleontologists have always been concerned about the documentary quality of the fossil record, and this has also become an important issue for biologists, who increasingly look to accumulations of bones, shells, and plant material as possible ways to extend the time-frame of observation on species and community behaviors. Quantitative data on the postmortem behavior of organic remains in modern environments are providing new insights into death and fossil assemblages as sources of biological information. Important findings include: 1. With the exception of a few circumstances, usually recognizable by independent criteria, transport out of the original life habitat affects few individuals. 2. Most species with preservable hardparts are in fact represented in the local death assemblage, commonly in correct rank importance. Molluscs are the most durable of modern aquatic groups studied so far, and they show highest fidelity to the original community. 3. Time-averaging of remains from successive generations and communities often prevents the detection of short-term (seasons, years) variability but provides an excellent record of the natural range of community composition and structure over longer periods. Thus, although a complex array of processes and circumstances influences preservation, death assemblages of resistant skeletal elements are for many major groups good to excellent records of community composition, morphological variation, and environmental and geographic distribution of species, and such assemblages can record temporal dynamics at ecologically and evolutionarily meaningful scales.

Kidwell, S.M., Time-averaging in the marine fossil record: overview of strategies and uncertainties, Geobios, 30 (7), 977-995, 1997.

The paleontologic reasoning that led to the recognition of time-averaged assemblages in the early 1970s, and to elaborations of the concept in the 1980s and 1990s, has now undergone considerable actualistic testing, primarily using marine mollusks. These studies have confirmed the fundamental elements of the concept, including paleontologic estimates of the absolute durations and short-term dynamics of time- averaging: despite the rapid rates of shell destruction that can be documented in modern environments, death assemblages in nearshore and shelf settings are age-mixtures that have commonly formed over thousands to tens of thousands of years. Although many more actualistic studies are needed to document environmental and taxonomic variation, the results so far greatly increase our confidence in the indirect sedimentologic, stratigraphic, and paleontologic evidence used to evaluate assemblages in the older fossil record. The strategy outlined for evaluating fossil assemblages stresses breadth of evidence, most particularly geological context and origins of the host interval. Numerous questions remain. One is whether a "taphonomic clock" operates. does damage, either on an individual shell or for an assemblage overall, accrue at a sufficiently steady rate that it can be used to estimate the relative age of a shell (i.e., if it is from one of the earlier or from one of the later generations to be incorporated in the time-averaged assemblage), or used to estimate the duration of time-averaging in the overall assemblage (maximum range of shell ages)? Unfortunately, damage accrues very quickly apparently within molluscan assemblages (e.g. within the first few hundred years), so that assemblages that accumulate over much longer time scales (hundreds of thousands of years) do not differ significantly in taphonomic grade than those formed over a few thousand years. Comparative analysis of fossil assemblages suggests that other features, such as diagenetic heterogeneity and microstratigraphic complexity within host intervals, may be more useful "clocks" for ranking the time- resolution of assemblages, but these ideas need wider testing. Other uncertainties and directions for investigation are probable differences in the relative degrees and absolute durations of time-averaging (a) among major taxonomic groups, (b) among environments within single embayments, (c) through depositional sequences, owing to shifting rates of sedimentation as well as migrating environments, and (d) over the course of Phanerozoic time, owing to changes in the nature of skeletons produced as well as in the organisms that influence post-mortem preservation. We have testable hypotheses and even preliminary evidence for these larger scale patterns, and they are exciting avenues for future research.

Kowalewski, M., G.A. Goodfriend, and K.W. Flessa, High-resolution estimates of temporal mixing within shell beds: the evils and virtues of time-averaging, Paleobiology, 24 (3), 287-304, 1998.

This study quantifies the fine structure of time-averaging by using large samples of dated shells collected from within individual strata. Time-averaging results in both good and bad news for interpreting bioclastic deposits. Nine samples of shells were collected from four Holocene cheniers on the Colorado Delta (Gulf of California) and 165 shells of the bivalve Chione fluctifraga were dated using C-14-calibrated amino acid racemization (D-alloisoleucine/L-isoleucine). The age range of shells within samples averages 661 years and, in seven out of nine samples, exceeds 500 years. The sample standard deviation ranges from 73 to 294 years and averages 203 years, far exceeding the dating errors (<<100 years) and potential variation in the life span of Chione (<10 years). Time-averaging is homogeneous among strata within cheniers but varies significantly among cheniers. Age-distributions of dated shells indicate that at 50-year resolution, the samples provide a continuous and uniform record for the entire interval. The actual sample completeness (63.6%) is very close to that predicted by simulations of sampling a 100% complete, uniform record (67.3%). The bad news is that, no matter how carefully collected, data from shell beds may not be suitable for studying processes on timescales shorter than 10(2) to 10(3) years; explanations for faunal change that invoke reasoning or models derived from a strictly ecological point of view may rarely be justifiable. Also, notable differences in temporal resolution between the shell beds of seemingly identical origin imply that paleontological patterns (e.g., species diversity) may be affected by cryptic variation in time-averaging. The comparison of our data with time-averaging estimates obtained from other cheniers at coarser sampling resolutions indicates that pooling of samples (analytical time-averaging) can significantly reduce the temporal resolution of paleontological data. The good news is that shell beds can record the optimal type of time-averaging: where paleobiological data are a time- weighted average of the faunal composition from the spectrum of environments that existed during the entire interval of time. Samples from single strata provide a long-term record that is representative of the predominating environments. Within the range of C-14 dating, shell beds can provide a complete, high- resolution record, and thus may offer exceptional insights into the environmental and climatic changes of the last 40 thousand years.

Kraus, N.C., and H. Hanson, Beach Nourishment in Presence of Seawall, Journal of Waterway Port Coastal and Ocean Engineering-Asce, 121 (5), 272-274, 1995.


Laustrup, C., Erosion Control With Breakwaters and Beach Nourishment, Journal of Coastal Research, 4 (4), 677-685, 1988.


Lueck, K.L.O., and S.W. Snyder, Lateral variations among populations of stained benthic foraminifera in surface sediments of the North Carolina continental shelf (USA), Journal of Foraminiferal Research, 27 (1), 20-41, 1997.

Analyses of stained benthic foraminiferal populations from the 23-Mile Rock area of Onslow Bay, North Carolina continental shelf reveal no vertical partitioning of the sediment into depth-related microhabitats, a finding consistent with that from the Frying Pan Shoals area 40 km to the southwest (Murosky and Snyder, 1994), Because taxa are not segregated by sediment depth, composite populations from the upper 8 cm of the two areas can be compared to assess lateral variation across the middle shelf, Although most of the abundant and persistent taxa occur commonly at both sites, there are differences in taxonomic composition, in terms of both absolute and relative abundances, Populations at the 23-Mile site are approximately four times as large as those at Frying Pan Shoals, Ten taxa, all more abundant and persistent at 23-Mile Rock, account for most of the difference, Reasons for the observed lateral variation cannot be directly related to changes in the depth regime, water mass characteristics, sediment grain size and sorting, or mineralogical composition of the sediment, Foraminiferal abundances and distributions may be related to the chemistry and flow rate of groundwater, variably enriched in nutrients that drive the benthic productivity of Onslow Bay, fluxing through the sediments into the water column, Testing this hypothesis, when data from seepage meters are published, is a promising direction for future research.

Macintyre, I.G., O.H. Pilkey, and R. Stuckenrath, Relict Oysters On United-States Atlantic Continental-Shelf - Reconsideration of Their Usefulness in Understanding Late Quaternary Sea-Level History, Geological Society of America Bulletin, 89 (2), 277-282, 1978.


Mahaney, W.C., Dating Methods, Progress in Physical Geography, 15 (3), 304-309, 1991.


Mallinson, D.J., J.S. Compton, S.W. Snyder, and D.A. Hodell, Strontium Isotopes and Miocene Sequence Stratigraphy Across the Northeast Florida Platform, Journal of Sedimentary Research Section B-Stratigraphy and Global Studies, 64 (3), 392-407, 1994.

A preliminary assessment of Miocene sea-level fluctuations is presented based on the integration of Sr-derived ages and sequence-stratigraphic concepts applied to subsamples of 12 cores that transect the Hawthorn Group on the northeast Florida Platform. The Hawthorn Group section includes phosphorite nodules, peloids, and crusts as well as dolosilt and dolostone nodules and beds formed during early burial diagenesis of organic-rich sediments deposited during periods of intensified and persistent upwelling associated with rising and maximum sea level. The Sr-87/Sr-86 composition of phosphorite and dolomite is used to determine the age of in-place phosphorite crusts and dolostone beds (condensed sections) and reworked phosphorite and dolostone sand and gravel (unconformities and transgressive surfaces). Regional correlation of unconformities and condensed sections provides the basis for a sequence- stratigraphic framework from which the age and relative amplitude of sea-level fluctuations are constructed. Seven depositional sequences are identified from the data. Depositional sequences correspond to local sea-level fluctuations with maximum water depths at approximately 25-24, 21-20, 19-18, 17-15, 14-12, 11-9, and 8-6 Ma. Greatest water depth apparently occurred at 17-15 Ma.

Manighetti, B., and L. Carter, Across-shelf sediment dispersal, Hauraki Gulf, New Zealand, Marine Geology, 160 (3-4), 271-300, 1999.

Side-scan, seismic and surficial sediment data accompanied by current meter records highlight across-shelf sediment transport in Hauraki Gulf, an island-studded embayment off northern New Zealand. Calm weather currents are locally dominated by the tides, with periodic incursions of oceanic water from detached meanders of the East Auckland Current. Under these conditions, bedload transport occurs mainly in three 15-20 km-wide channels, where bathymetric intensification of the flow brings about near-bottom speeds of up to 82 cm s(-1) for Colville Channel and 33-44 cm s(-1) in Jellicoe and Cradock Channels. Surficial sediments are gravelly to muddy sand, winnowed in places, leaving a lag deposit of mainly biogenic carbonate gravel. Modelling results suggest that in Colville Channel, dominant fine to medium sand modes are mobile for 20-60% of the time, with a net eastward movement for fine sand. In Jellicoe and Cradock Channels, the prevailing direction of transport is southwards across the shelf, with sand mobile for up to 33% of the time. Oceanic incursions have the potential to boost flow in the western Gulf, however such incursions are transitory, and there is no measurable expression of oceanic water in the sedimentary record. BI:cause of their association with prolonged periods of calm weather, the incursions are unlikely to accompany storm events, where their cumulative effect might be important for sediment transport. Near-bottom currents resulting from oceanic incursion may reinforce peak tides inside the Gulf by up to 2-4 cm s(-1). Enhancement of prevailing water motions occurs during periods of extreme weather. During cyclone Drena (January 1997), measured flow speeds in Jellicoe Channel reached 48 cm s(-1). Furthermore, the disturbance generated large waves that stirred bottom sediments down to over 100 m water depth. Such events are probably the major agent of sediment redistribution in the Hauraki Gulf. The net effect of storm and calm weather currents is to move sediment across the outer to middle shelf where, in the western and central Gulf it accumulates, and in the eastern Gulf it escapes eastward via Colville Channel. (C) 1999 Elsevier Science B.V. All rights reserved.

Marlow, M.S., A.J. Stevenson, H. Chezar, and R.A. McConnaughey, Tidally generated sea-floor lineations in Bristol Bay, Alaska, USA, Geo-Marine Letters, 19 (4), 219-226, 1999.

Highly reflective linear features occur in water depths of 20- 30 m in northern Bristol Bay (Alaska, USA) and are, in places, over 600 m in length. Their length-to-width ratio is over 100.1. The lineations are usually characterized by large transverse ripples with wavelengths of 1-2 m. The lineations trend about N60 degrees E, and are spaced between 20 and 350 m. Main tidal directions near the lineations are N60 degrees E (flood) and S45 degrees W (ebb), which are parallel to subparallel to the lineations. They suggest that the lineations may be tidally generated. The lineations may be bright sonar reflections from a winnowed lag concentrate of coarse sand.

Marques, M.A., N.P. Psuty, and R. Rodriguez, Neglected effects of eolian dynamics on artificial beach nourishment: The case of Riells, Spain, Journal of Coastal Research, 17 (3), 694-704, 2001.

Beach nourishment projects have been systematically analyzed from a number of perspectives. However, although studies have evaluated the suitability, performance, and impacts of beach nourishment, the analyses seldom include wind effects. The eolian transport triggered by beach nourishment is examined at Riells, Spain, where the beach was augmented to accommodate tourism., This case study focuses on the unprecedented geomorphological impacts associated with eolian processes and the large quantities of sediment (ca. 20 m(3)/m of beach) mobilized within the nourishment area to be transferred to the upper beach and some into the adjacent road and residential community. Geomorphological research from the area provides a perspective on past and present eolian dynamics. The analysis at Riells describes the environmental conditions for the geomorphological response to the beach surface area increase and hence sand availability. Thus, it provides information on an ancillary outcome of beach nourishment and identifies a need to incorporate eolian transfers in the evaluation of impacts and cost of beach nourishment.

McBride, R.A., and T.F. Moslow, Origin, Evolution, and Distribution of Shoreface Sand Ridges, Atlantic Inner Shelf, Usa, Marine Geology, 97 (1-2), 57-85, 1991.

A computer mapping system was employed to document the location of 259 shoreface-attached and detached sand ridges in water < 20 m deep and the temporal and spatial distribution of 309 historical and active tidal inlets along the U.S. Atlantic coast (Montauk Point, New York, to Miami Beach, Florida). This database was compiled through the analysis of over 600 historical maps, 50 bathymetric charts, and other published data. A genetic relationship between the location of certain historical and active tidal inlets and shoreface-attached sand ridges is documented. It is inferred that ebb-tidal deltas provided the initial sand source for the development of many shoreface-attached sand ridges. Although shoreface-attached sand ridges appear to have several different modes of formation, a two-step process for the development of most shoreface-attached and detached sand ridges along U.S. Atlantic barrier island and cape coastlines is proposed: (1) sand is deposited as ebb-tidal deltas along the lower shoreface and/or inner continental shelf prior to or during transgression, followed by (2) further transgression, which reworks the deltaic sand bodies into linear sand ridges at the base of the shoreface by shelf processes. The best-developed shoreface sand ridge fields along the U.S. Atlantic shelf lie adjacent to shorelines characterized by all of the following: (1) transgression, (2) mixed energy, wave-dominated barrier islands, and (3) laterally migrating tidal inlet systems. Tidal inlet systems are natural sediment sinks that capture sand carried by longshore sediment transport. Ebb-tidal delta deposits associated with these migrating tidal inlets provide the initial sand body for the development of shoreface-attached sand ridges. The oblique orientation and linear form of shoreface-attached sand ridges appear to be a function of shoreline transgression, lateral inlet migration, and wave reworking of ebb-tidal delta deposits concentrated along an ebb-tidal delta retreat path. Shelf processes act as modifying agents in the evolution of sand ridges during and after ebb- tidal delta deposition. In general, shoreface-attached sand ridges are poorly developed or absent along eroding headlands, spits, and barrier island shorelines characterized by naturally stabilized tidal inlets. These latter inlets and shoreline types are dominated or influenced by one or all of the following: (1) antecedent topography, (2) higher tidal ranges, (3) larger tidal prisms, (4) lower wave energies, or (5) finer grain sizes. The coupling of shoreline and shallow marine sedimentary processes during a transgression is critical to the origin, evolution, and distribution of shoreface sand ridges in the study area. Modern shoreface-attached sand ridges are also known to occur in different coastal and shelf settings where large amounts of sediment were supplied to the shoreface and inner shelf during, or immediately before, transgression. Commonly observed vertical and lateral interrelationships of Holocene shoreface-attached sand ridges and tidal inlets or distributary channels have important ramifications for the development of shelf sandstone facies models. In addition, the geometric relationship documented in this study provides predictive petroleum and hard mineral exploration models of the spatial and temporal distribution of shoreface and shelf sand ridges.

McKie, T., Geostrophic Versus Friction-Dominated Storm Flow - Paleocurrent Evidence From the Late Permian Brotherton Formation, England, Sedimentary Geology, 93 (1-2), 73-84, 1994.

The Late Permian Brotherton Formation of northeastern England is a 0-75 m thick carbonate sequence which exhibits abundant, erosively amalgamated, hummocky cross-stratification, gutter casts and shallow scour-fills, suggesting deposition in a storm-dominated, platformal shelf setting. The outcrop (ca. 15 m thick) is divisible into three facies associations: a basal transgressive interval, 4-5 m thick (facies association A), which passes upwards into a thinly bedded, argillaceous, condensed section < 1 m thick (facies association B), which in turn rapidly grades upwards into a 8-10 m thick, regressive, highstand succession of hummocky cross-stratified, amalgamated scour-fills (facies association C). The dominance of hummocky cross-stratification in all facies associations would suggest that post-storm deposition (and fairweather reworking) was largely under oscillatory currents. However, the erosional palaeocurrent data indicate that facies associations A and B were deposited following combined oscillatory and geostrophically balanced, shore-parallel flows. In contrast, facies association C was deposited by infilling the scours of friction-dominated, offshore-directed and downwelling, jet-like flows combined with oscillatory wave currents. The dominance of geostrophic or friction-dominated flows in the study area is interpreted to be controlled by relative sea level changes. During transgressive conditions increasing accommodation permitted rotation of the downwelling pressure-driven currents. In the regressive phase, particularly in the accommodation- limited late highstand, bottom friction was important in inhibiting flow rotation. It is suggested that the paucity of evidence for geostrophic flows in the ancient record may in part be attributed to the palaeocurrent indicators in sand- grade substrates being restricted to thin transgressive intervals (or surfaces), whilst in the volumetrically more important regressive deposits, palaeocurrent data are largely contained within facies from the friction-dominated zone.

McNinch, J.E., and J.T. Wells, Sedimentary processes and depositional history of a cape- associated shoal, Cape Lookout, North Carolina, Marine Geology, 158 (1-4), 233-252, 1999.

The sedimentary processes of a cape-associated shoal are an integral component of the sediment budget of the surrounding cuspate foreland shoreline. The manner in which sediment is delivered to a shoal and the fate of this sediment, once delivered, have important implications to shoreline management and yet remain largely unstudied. Modem sedimentary processes and the recent depositional history of Cape Lookout Shoal, a large cape-associated shoal in the mixed-energy environment of the North Carolina continental shelf, were examined in a field- intensive study through high-resolution seismic profiles, hydraulic probes, near-bottom current meters, sediment grab samples, and detailed bathymetric surveys. Our findings indicate that: (1) the sediment budget of the up-drift littoral cell is coupled directly to Cape Lookout Shoal, (2) the sedimentary processes of the shoal remain active down its entire length but at a diminishing level with distance from the shore, and (3) the shoal serves as a long-term sink for littoral-zone sediment and limits sediment exchange between adjacent littoral cells and shelf regions. We present evidence suggesting that the position and morphology of Cape Lookout Shoal are not controlled by underlying erosion-resistant strata and that the shoal appears to have developed in the late Holocene after the shelf was scoured by the transgressing shoreface. (C) 1999 Elsevier Science B.V. All rights reserved.

Mearns, D.L., A.C. Hine, and S.R. Riggs, Comparison of Sonographs Taken Before and After Hurricane Diana, Onslow Bay, North-Carolina, Geology, 16 (3), 267-270, 1988.


Meldahl, K.H., K.W. Flessa, and A.H. Cutler, Time-averaging and postmortem skeletal survival in benthic fossil assemblages: Quantitative comparisons among Holocene environments, Paleobiology, 23 (2), 207-229, 1997.

We used radiocarbon ages on dead Holocene shells of the venerid bivalve Chione spp. to investigate how time-averaging and taphonomy in shallow marine benthic assemblages vary with sedimentary and tectonic setting. We compared shells collected from the sediment surface in five depositional environments from two regions of the Gulf of California, Mexico: Bahia Concepcion, a young faulted rift basin with high rates of terrigenous and carbonate sedimentation; and Bahia la Choya, an intertidal system along a sediment-starved shelf. Frequency distributions of shell ages in all environments form a hollow curve, with a mode at young ages and a long tail toward older ages. This pattern suggests that shells are added to the taphonomically active zone (TAZ) at roughly constant rates (via continuous shell deaths), and removed from the TAZ at random,either through destruction or by achieving final burial. Shell half-lives (the amount of time to remove half the shells from the TAZ) provide a comparative measure of time-averaging. Time-averaging varies with sedimentary and tectonic setting. The lowest amounts of time-averaging (shell half-lives of 90 to 165 years) occur in Bahia Concepcion, where rapid rates of terrigenous sedimentation (on fan-deltas) and carbonate sedimentation (in pocket bays) bury shells rapidly. Time- averaging is higher in the sediment-starved environments of Bahia la Choya (shell half-lives of 285 to 550 years). The highest amounts of time-averaging occur the inner tidal flats of Bahia la Choya (shell half-life of 550 years). Here the conjunction of low sedimentation rates with low rates of shell destruction (due to periodic tidal emergence) permits shells to persist in the TAZ for very long time spans. There is no systematic relationship between a shell's age and its taphonomic condition (taphonomic grade) in any environment, probably because of the complex and random nature of burial- exhumation in the TAZ. Age variance tends to increase with increasing taphonomic alteration: highly altered shells range in age from young to several thousand years old, while less altered shells are mostly young. The correspondence between time-averaging and the taphonomic condition of entire shell assemblages is also weak, but might be resolved with further study. These results provide quantitative data on time- averaging in benthic assemblages as a function of sedimentary and tectonic setting, and suggest some guidelines for facies appropriate for particular studies. Shallow marine rift basins like Bahia Concepcion can potentially contain within-horizon fossil assemblages representing time spans of only a few hundred years-time resolution of ten beyond reach in paleontology. In contrast, sediment-starved shelf habitats like Bahia la Choya are unlikely to yield assemblages with time resolution finer than several thousands of years.

Michener, W.K., E.R. Blood, K.L. Bildstein, M.M. Brinson, and L.R. Gardner, Climate change, hurricanes and tropical storms, and rising sea level in coastal wetlands, Ecological Applications, 7 (3), 770-801, 1997.

Global climate change is expected to affect temperature and precipitation patterns, oceanic and atmospheric circulation, rate of rising sea level, and the frequency, intensity, timing, and distribution of hurricanes and tropical storms. The magnitude of these projected physical changes and their subsequent impacts on coastal wetlands will vary regionally. Coastal wetlands in the southeastern United States have naturally evolved under a regime of rising sea level and specific patterns of hurricane frequency, intensity, and timing. A review of known ecological effects of tropical storms and hurricanes indicates that storm timing, frequency, and intensity can alter coastal wetland hydrology, geomorphology, biotic structure, energetics, and nutrient cycling. Research conducted to examine the impacts of Hurricane Hugo on colonial waterbirds highlights the importance of longterm studies for identifying complex interactions that may otherwise be dismissed as stochastic processes. Rising sea level and even modest changes in the frequency, intensity, timing, and distribution of tropical storms and hurricanes are expected to have substantial impacts on coastal wetland patterns and processes. Persistence of coastal wetlands will be determined by the interactions of climate and anthropogenic effects, especially how humans respond to rising sea level and how further human encroachment on coastal wetlands affects resource exploitation, pollution, and water use. Long-term changes in the frequency, intensity, timing, and distribution of hurricanes and tropical storms will likely affect biotic functions (e.g., community structure, natural selection, extinction rates, and biodiversity) as well as underlying processes such as nutrient cycling and primary and secondary productivity. Reliable predictions of global-change impacts on coastal wetlands will require better understanding of the linkages among terrestrial, aquatic, wetland, atmospheric, oceanic, and human components. Developing this comprehensive understanding of the ecological ramifications of global change will necessitate close coordination among scientists from multiple disciplines and a balanced mixture of appropriate scientific approaches. For example, insights may be gained through the careful design and implementation of broad-scale comparative studies that incorporate salient patterns and processes, including treatment of anthropogenic influences. Well-designed, broad-scale comparative studies could serve as the scientific framework for developing relevant and focused long-term ecological research, monitoring programs, experiments, and modeling studies. Two conceptual models of broad-scale comparative research for assessing ecological responses to climate change are presented: utilizing space-for- time substitution coupled with long-term studies to assess impacts of rising sea level and disturbance on coastal wetlands, and utilizing the moisture-continuum model for assessing the effects