Bathymetry and Bottom Characteristics in the Surf Zone During SandyDuck

Dickson, P.J., Gallagher, E. L., and Drake, T.G., 1999, Bathymetry and bottom characteristics in the surf zone during SandyDuck: EOS Trans. AGU, 80 (17), Spring Meeting Suppl., S194. (Special session: Bedform Patterns and Processes)



Digital sidescan sonar imagery and detailed profiles of bathymetry obtained using an array of acoustic altimeters were collected daily for over one month in the nearshore during the SandyDuck 97 field experiment at the Army Field Research Facility (FRF) at Duck, North Carolina. Seven 1 MHz sonic altimeters mounted on the FRF's amphibious CRAB sampled seafloor elevations at 48 Hz. After altimeter positions are computed from measurements of CRAB attitude and RTK-GPS, the vertical resolution of the altimeters is about 5 cm. A dual frequency (100 MHz and 500MHz) digital sidescan sonar having about 10 cm horizontal resolution was mounted on the CRAB a fixed distance of about 1 m above the seafloor. Data were collected along 20 cross-shore profile lines about 25 m apart extending from the beach to 6 m water depth. Sidescan images having nearly 100% overlap were obtained seaward of a sand bar at 1 m depth under low-energy conditions; at relatively higher energy conditions sonar performance degraded significantly due to bubbles and suspended sediment in the water column. Integration of sonar and altimetric observations provides a unique estimate of bottom characteristics, including geometric roughness and gross sedimentology, over large, contiguous areas of the shallow-water environment. Such integration also helps resolve ambiguities that typically arise during interpretation of side-scan imagery. For example, areas of high acoustic backscatter in sidescan images may correspond to bedforms or to differences in bed material.

While wave ripples and megaripples were observed on the seaward side of the sand bar in sidescan sonar images and altimeters, correlation between imaged ripples and altimeter data are often low. Possible causes of the low correlation could be suspended sediment masking the sidescan image, ripples too small for the altimeters to resolve, or changes in the bed between sidescan images and altimeter passes (typically 15 to 20 minutes). Sonar image degradation can be difficult to detect; on the other hand, excess suspended sediment or bubbles are typically much more obvious in the altimeter data. Correlation between sonar imagery and altimeter data is sometimes good. For example, during a period when significant wave height was greater than 1 m and wave period less than 10 s, a pattern of long-crested, low-amplitude ripples is observed in both datasets. Mean ripple spacing is 5 m and maximum ripple height is a several cm, and ripple crests were oriented transverse to wave propagation.Examples of bedforms in the nearshore will be examined for conditions resulting in high correlation between the two data sets, and possible causes of low correlation between the two measurement types will be investigated.


Supported by the Coastal Dynamics Program of the Office of Naval Research.